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    The Car Lounge
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    Results 7,476 to 7,486 of 7486
    1. #7476
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      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post
      Another question if I may. I have a modern car (2013) with modern a/c. If I wanted to replace my condenser because it’s been decimated by road debris, could I just disconnect the fittings and allow the refrigerant to leak all over my garage or will that kill me/the planet?
      Oh, absolutely take it somewhere that works on AC. Letting refrigerant vent is illegal, a serious health risk (you could accidentally suffocate--seriously), and harmful to the atmosphere. Well worth the cost to do it right.

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    3. #7477
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      Feb 10th, 2015
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      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post
      Interesting stuff. I’m grappling with what thermostat and fan switch combo to try but I always end up with coolant that’s too cool (stat and switch activate too early) or the coolant ends up overly warm. I’m sure part of the equation is the heat shedding ability of the radiator but from what I can tell the only downside of having perennially cool coolant seems to be reduced cabin heating.
      Is there a reason you don't want the coolant at the correct temperature?

    4. #7478
      Member adrew's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post
      Interesting stuff. I’m grappling with what thermostat and fan switch combo to try but I always end up with coolant that’s too cool (stat and switch activate too early) or the coolant ends up overly warm. I’m sure part of the equation is the heat shedding ability of the radiator but from what I can tell the only downside of having perennially cool coolant seems to be reduced cabin heating.
      Most cars will run a little richer when cold to help get up to temp more quickly. When mine hits 180°F it leans way out and drops from using about .4 gallons per hour (fast idle) down to .18 GPH.

      In the winter when it's really cold and I have the heat blasting, at long traffic lights, the coolant temp drops into the 160s-170s and the ECU will raise the idle speed up to 1000-1100 from 750 to get it back to 180°F.

      Get a ScanGuage or something similar - you can learn a lot. And some cars just run hotter. My old Ranger was always around 205-210°F and always felt hot under hood.

      If a thermostat gets stuck open, the car will generally run okay but get crappy MPG since it rarely warms up all the way and won't lean out. Plus it can cause other issues like clogged-up cats since it's running rich all the time.
      Improving the signal-to-noise ratio

    5. #7479
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      Dec 22nd, 2008
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      Quote Originally Posted by 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN View Post
      Is there a reason you don't want the coolant at the correct temperature?
      I can't find a t-stat/switch combo that will keep it ideal. The coolant car is not the modern a/c car, it's a terribly tuned CIS-turbo fun weekend/track toy. High consumption and rich mixture isn't really an issue.

      As to the A/C condenser, I have the front end of that car all torn down to upgrade the intercooler and having noticed how banged up the condenser is, am loath to pay someone to tear it all down again to replace it later. But also not looking to gas myself so...

    6. #7480
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      Feb 10th, 2015
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      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post
      I can't find a t-stat/switch combo that will keep it ideal. The coolant car is not the modern a/c car, it's a terribly tuned CIS-turbo fun weekend/track toy. High consumption and rich mixture isn't really an issue.
      OIC.

      It used to be the "hot tip" to change the thermostat and radiator coolant switch to cooler versions but that was debunked as a performance upgrade for the street long ago. I think TT or maybe Autotech still sell a matched set. With any engine, it's best to get it running correctly before adding performance modifications.

      If it's already modified, you have to decide if you want to go back to stock or try to work with what you have. If you take it back to stock, you can dial it in so it runs perfectly and go from there. Once you establish a baseline you can see what works and what doesn't.

      It may be difficult or almost impossible to figure out what has already been done unless the previous owner tells you and provides documentation. If the previous owner messed with the CIS or CIS-E, they may have messed it up even if the engine itself is stock.

      If you know where the previous owner bought the performance parts, you should be able to contact the aftermarket company to see if they have any tips. For instance, if it's a 16V with a set of TT cams, TT should be able to tell you what makes their cams happy. If it has race cams it's going to need more modifications to the rest of the engine.

      EDIT: I just re-read this and noticed it has a turbo. If it was a kit, the manufacturer should be able to help you. If it wasn't a kit you may be on your own.

      Good luck.

      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post
      As to the A/C condenser, I have the front end of that car all torn down to upgrade the intercooler and having noticed how banged up the condenser is, am loath to pay someone to tear it all down again to replace it later. But also not looking to gas myself so...
      I would have to keep the A/C so if it was my car I'd buy a new condenser and have the A/C tech just replace it while he or she was there.

      I paid more to buy tires for my Ford than I paid for it. I have probably paid about twice the purchase price over the years to keep the A/C working.
      Last edited by 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN; 07-19-2020 at 03:17 AM.

    7. #7481
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      Feb 3rd, 2006
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      All right, what the heck does this Concours meter thingy measure?

      Quote Originally Posted by Broduski View Post
      TCL would suggest a Bi-Turbo to a single mother of 4 just for sh*t's and giggles.
      Quote Originally Posted by Sold Over Sticker View Post
      Here we can all drive like Colin McRae in his prime, earn $25k a month and bang super models. We can also text and drive.
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      You only live once, and you can file for Chapter 7 Bankruptcy every 8 years.

    8. #7482
      Member adrew's Avatar
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      How does fluid get into the torque converter? I have never really been able to visually it and can't really find any diagrams.
      Improving the signal-to-noise ratio

    9. #7483
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      Quote Originally Posted by TJSwoboda View Post
      All right, what the heck does this Concours meter thingy measure?

      It's a paint thickness meter. It helps detect a repaint (if it wasn't taken back to bare metal) and poor quality body repairs.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    10. #7484
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      Quote Originally Posted by adrew View Post
      How does fluid get into the torque converter? I have never really been able to visually it and can't really find any diagrams.
      The nose/gears that engage the inside of the torque converter on the transmission side also flow fluid in and out of the TC. That's part of the reason that there are multiple gears to engage in 'stages' when you slide a torque converter onto the transmission - the direction of fluid flow matters a lot, and there is an "in" and an "out" from the TC.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    11. #7485
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      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post

      Another question if I may. I have a modern car (2013) with modern a/c. If I wanted to replace my condenser because it’s been decimated by road debris, could I just disconnect the fittings and allow the refrigerant to leak all over my garage or will that kill me/the planet?
      Others have covered this, but of course the right answer is to have it recovered/sucked out correctly by a professional. In my town, I've had an easy time with a local A/C shop being willing to suck it out for free, or for a minimal hookup fee of $50. The main risk to them is that older cars could have stop leak, or R12, or propane, or some other garbage inside that could contaminate their machines or tanks, so YMMV depending on the shop. They keep the refrigerant, but then it's empty and you can replace parts, pull a vacuum, and charge it yourself if desired and properly equipped. Or just do the replacement work and bring it back to them to vacuum and recharge.

      Keep in mind that if you open the system to replace anything, you should also replace the receiver/drier.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    12. #7486
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      Quote Originally Posted by ArmenB View Post
      It's a paint thickness meter. It helps detect a repaint (if it wasn't taken back to bare metal) and poor quality body repairs.
      Ah! Makes sense.
      Quote Originally Posted by Broduski View Post
      TCL would suggest a Bi-Turbo to a single mother of 4 just for sh*t's and giggles.
      Quote Originally Posted by Sold Over Sticker View Post
      Here we can all drive like Colin McRae in his prime, earn $25k a month and bang super models. We can also text and drive.
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      You only live once, and you can file for Chapter 7 Bankruptcy every 8 years.

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