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7 years and a Callaway GTI later

133K views 762 replies 70 participants last post by  Hoffa 
#1 · (Edited)
7 years and a Callaway GTI later

After a long hiatus (I never really left but was VW-less too long), I finally have a GTI. I have been hunting for a good GTI to do a full restoration/restomod on for the last 8 years but never found a good candidate. I have met a ton of people on here and in the community along the way and about 7 years ago made contact with a local guy from a Craigslist ad. He bought the car new and put a ton of time and money building what was to him the ultimate GTI. It was so clean with 51k original miles I finally got it together and took it home. Last registration was 1997! My wife thinks I am absolutely insane but to me it's like coming home!


My story
My first car @ 16 was a 1979 Rabbit purchased dead with a hole in the side of the block. For reference that was 30 years ago! On a starving student budget, a subscription to VW and Porsche magazine for motivation, and no mechanical experience I slowly transformed it with a scirocco engine, a diesel 5 speed transmission conversion, a used Bilstein kit and a GTI interior. I had to learn how to fix things myself (sometimes twice!) and believe me I had to touch just about every nut and bolt on that car. I had a ton of fun and converted a few American muscle car friends to the VW side after competing in non-sanctioned street hill climb events! After selling it I went American for a change but immediately regretted it. Then just before college I lucked upon a really clean 83 GTI from the original adult owner but with a blown head gasket. I purchased an almost brand new cabriolet that was rolled from a tow yard and swapped out the engine in the driveway.



That GTI was really something and I had untold life experiences including meeting my girlfriend & now wife (coincidently she owned a 1980 Scirocco S at the time so you can start to see the power of the VW influence on me). By buying and fixing up broken MK1's and2's it helped pay for part of college and gave me some great life skills. This attachment to old VW 's baffles my friends a bit and seems immature in some respects, but I don't care and have found kindred spirits here on VWV. I can relate well with Mr. Spratt, vdubspeed, echassin, racerlance, scirocgvnr, and just about everyone else here in some way so excuse me for the babble as I get to the next chapter on my new GTI.

The GTI
The original owner was in in the SF Bay Area VW scene showing this car in the late 80's to 90's and I'm certain I crossed paths with it a time or 2. It is ultra clean with 51k mi, has a perfect body, zero rust, a mint full Recaro interior incl door panels, Callaway Stage 2+ with intercooler and Microfueler, oil cooler, Koni's, Neuspeed, Zender, Hella, Momo, etc.





Basically it's a time capsule of all the period performance parts you could want back in the day. I want to be respectful of it's past but make it my own. Outside of the maintenance of recommissioning a car that's been off the road for 15 or so years, the first changes I want to make include ditching the 16" wheels in favor of some 15" RML Snowflakes, ATS's, or Zender Phase1's. Mid-term I'm debating going back to stock on the body and removing the Zender kit. I know that seems absurd to some but I'm more of an OEM plus guy and love the stock Westy look. I'm gathering parts to accomplish this (thanks Leo, Ron, and Shawn!) and so far have picked up NOS badges, amazing original front and rear seats, an air dam, stock VDO panel, and a bunch of small items.



I'll update my progress as I get it sorted and legal. I can't wait to get this roadworthy and hit the coast and mountains this summer.
Hoffa
 
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#126 ·
Thanks guys that helps. I keep getting sidetracked with "while I'm here I may as well replace (insert anything)"! You could spend forever doing just that. With this being off the road since 1999 the fuel, cooling and brake systems items are my top priorities now.

Mk1autohaus and VWHeritage seem to be good sources for these items when in stock. I may have to parts hoard a few key OEM replacement wear items "just in case".
Hoffa
 
#127 · (Edited)
Found out my car has some Splitfire plugs in it. I don't think they are in business any longer. Anyone have the specs for Stage II with intercooler plugs and correct gap size? Does the gap size impact how your car will perform in a smog test?
 
#129 ·
Gap on these should be .028-.032 per the Callaway manual...unfortunately the plugs that they specify are no longer available and hard to cross reference. I finally found a few decent sets of NOS Bosch Silvers number XR4CS that I believe are 2 steps colder. I've been running them for about a year now with no issues that I can tell. These plugs have the removable nipple on top so you can use the OEM style plug wires that just go on the threaded stud... :thumbup:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111386438725?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

Now as far as smog...that kinda bites that you still need to do it on a vintage car... :rolleyes:

You should still be able to smog it without issues as long as it is tuned correctly, but not sure how tough they are on checking ALL of the OEM connections like charcoal canisters and CAT. Do they rolling road test it or just do the sniffer test?

Out here in MD, if you are registered as historic (anything 20 years or older is eligible), no smog testing and even no safety inspection to get tags when you buy the car! Catch is that you are only "supposed" to drive the car 2000 miles or less per year. That said, I gave a friend an old Toyota van that I had a few years ago and he's put over 100k on it! :eek:
 
#130 ·
I used to be a big proponent of everything Bosch, but found that the quality of their plugs slipped tremendously, and have been using nothing but NGK. If you can cross-reference the above Silver plug with an NGK, I would do so. Splitfire...Lol...Those things were garbage new, let alone all these years later. Heavily adopted snake oil.
 
#131 ·
Thx 2.O and DubD for the reply and cross reference/gap spec. Yes I remember the big debate on the splitfires back in the day and was surprised to see these here! The GTI runs very well but want to avoid detonation and refresh everything with better if available. I am seeing that NGK keeps getting consistently good user props for quality and durability and will go that direction. Now for Smog purposes they use a rolling dyno here and typically very precise visual so it's not going to pass. I'm installing my new CAT and running it through just to see how clean it is in good tune. I spoke with Callaway here in CA and the suggestion is that it should run clean but is not compliant as they never completed an EO certification. In my research I found BAE did and has a valid EO so that's in the back of my mind as an option to keep it Turbo and legal. I seriously doubt one could get through even the BAR option process but armed with a clean test I'm going to try and just see what happens. The CA Historic laws changed recently to now require full initial smog check and periodic visual/sniffer so any loophole here is now closed. Ultimately the Callaway will come off so I can be road legal. For now I'm on an Antique Vehicle insurance plan which only allows for 1k miles a year for Car Shows/Events/repairs.
Hoffa
 
#132 ·
I believe New Dimensions also had an EO number for their MK2 (rebranded Callaway) kits. I tried to look into this a while ago through Tim Hildebrand, but he has sold everything to Marco over at SEM and I don't remember what happened when I reached out to him.

There are a few remaining loopholes/options, PM me if you are interested.
 
#133 ·
You are right the ND kit does but I believe only applies to MK2 year cars. I can't locate the EO# to confirm but would love it if someone had the details to see if it's a possibility.
 
#135 ·
Ok found it looks like only mk2 cars of course!
EO: D-316
EO Date: 1993-04-13
Manufacturer Name: New Dimensions, Inc.
Device: Stage I and Stage II Turbocharger Kits
Device Type: Turbocharger System / Turbocharger Modification
Part_Number:Model_Specification:Modification_Allowed:Remarks:
1985-1987 VW Golf GTI and Jetta GLIKit includes turbocharger, boost gage, exhaust manifold, exhaust muffler, intercooler, fuel injector, and micro fueler.

 
#136 · (Edited)
Updated:

For those interested I found a "Legend" CARB EO
EO: D-155 View PDF
EO Date: 1985-04-05
Manufacturer Name: Legend Turbo, Inc.
Device: Turbocharger System
Device Type: Turbocharger System / Turbocharger Modification
Part_Number:Model_Specification:Modification_Allowed:Remarks:
VW-341984-1985 VW Jetta, Rabbit, and Scirocco powered by a 1.8L fuel injected engine

BAE
Part_Number:Model_Specification:Modification_Allowed:Remarks:
28-0000-31981-1983 VW Rabbit, Dasher, Jetta P/U and Audi 4000 powered by a 105 CID 4 cylinder engine Install delay valve on vacuum retard mechanism of distributor
EO: D-97-19 View PDF
EO Date: 1983-05-20
Manufacturer Name: BAE Turbosystems
Device: Turbocharger Kit
Device Type: Turbocharger System / Turbocharger Modification
BAE also has one for 1980

Part_Number:Model_Specification:Modification_Allowed:Remarks:
28-0000C
1980 VW gasoline powered Rabbit, Scirocco, and Jetta with manual transmission
Install water injector
EO: D-97-1 View PDF
EO Date: 1980-10-03
Manufacturer Name: BAE
Device: BAE Turbocharger Kit
Device Type: Turbocharger System / Turbocharger Modification

BAE also has Diesel covered

Part_Number:Model_Specification:Modification_Allowed:Remarks:
32-0000-11981-1983 VW Rabbit, Dasher, Jetta, and P/U powered by a 97 CID 4 cylinder diesel engine
EO: D-97-18 View PDF
EO Date: 1983-05-20
Manufacturer Name: BAE Turbosystems
Device: Turbocharger Kit
Device Type: Turbocharger System / Turbocharger Modification
 
#137 ·
Thanks a million , this is great information.
 
#138 · (Edited)
So thanks to MK1Autohaus my new fuel line, copper crush washers, and fuel filter are in. Strange that the first crush washer at the fuel line to filter was not copper.

I initially had some seepage from that link and snugged it up tighter and it took with no leaks.


Took it for a quick drive and everything worked great!
Restarts are instant and shifting through the gears is great with the new rod and bushings.
Next up is a refresh of the cooling hoses, the alt belt, and some fresh plugs.
 
#139 ·
Not much to share lately with a new job and kids taking 100% of my time which is not a bad thing! Had a small window of time so carefully pulled the Recaro door panels and lubed my window regulators today to make them easier to roll up, Much better! Car sat for a month and fired right up so my cold start issues are confirmed a thing of the past. Took it for a short drive and cleaned it up a bit. Next week Ill put together an exhaust section and install the CAT.
 
#142 · (Edited)
I did some digging and found the specs on the split fire plugs I have. They are 2 steps colder than stock. The ND Callaway instruction manual calls for a Bosch W5DC which is 1 step colder than stock. Talked with NGK today and they suggested 1 step colder given my setup and power. Strangely NGK goes up in part number rather than down (like Bosch and SF) and is BPR7ES (or as recommended for Turbo the BPR7EIX) so will pick those up tomorrow and give em a try. That Bosch plug was also used on 1983 and earlier Porsche 911's and can still be found so I may pick some up for comparison. With the stage II setup and intercooler I should be getting 10psi but am only seeing 5 on the gauge. I can't find any leaks so maybe my Deltagate was dialed back? Hope my microfueler is doing its job so need to see if it is functioning. I plan to use my DVOM to check out the dwell timing to make sure it's set correctly before attempting to tweak anything. I wonder if the previous owner made adjustments to dial things back to compensate for an issue? There are a lot of variables with tuning CIS as I am learning and I'm concerned things will go boom if I don't figure it out so I think it's time to invest in that A/F gauge to keep an eye on detonation.
 
#144 ·
In reading the instruction manual it seems as though the Deltagate has an allen head that can be adjusted to change the boost levels. Is there a spring in there that is replaceable and is it necessary to do so to get to the higher boost levels? Do you know if this spring an available item still? I'll check into this.
Thanks!
Hoffa
 
#145 ·
My turbosmart wastegate has a 7psi spring and the gauge is also reading less.
I think there is always a loss due to the intercooler and intake tubing
 
#147 ·
The delta gate was made by turbonetics, and they are still in business selling deltagates. So you should be able to get another. However a QUALITY ball and spring boost control valve will offer much better accuracy and control than by changing the springs. It installs in the hose between your intake and the wastegate. It prevents any boost from getting to the gate until the desired pressure is reached and then the gate opens. It is small and easily hidden so it won't affect the period correctness. Www.boostvalve.com is a good one.



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#148 ·
The delta gate was made by turbonetics, and they are still in business selling deltagates. So you should be able to get another. However a QUALITY ball and spring boost control valve will offer much better accuracy and control than by changing the springs. It installs in the hose between your intake and the wastegate. It prevents any boost from getting to the gate until the desired pressure is reached and then the gate opens. It is small and easily hidden so it won't affect the period correctness. Www.boostvalve.com is a good one.
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Thanks for the reply. I spoke with Turbonetics and they no longer rebuild my Deltagate model or have parts for them. They are suggesting instead that i buy their new Evolution model which is supposed to be a direct bolt on swap and looks similar in design to the Tial or the one you reference. I'm not sure if it will fit and will take a few measurements. http://www.turboneticsinc.com/performance/products/wastegates/evolution-wastegate
Lots of negative chatter on the Deltagate but not much concrete to prove the negative sentiment.
 
#149 ·
Looks like the evolution could be a direct replacement solution IF it has a provision for the spigot that goes to the bellows as ours have a cast piece as part of the assembly.

I have this bolt on piece from a TIAL that I bought and then sold again, but saved the spigot just in case!

 
#152 ·
Correct the old delta gate has a 1" outlet, which corresponds to the small valve size as well. The new gates are flanged in and out. Same bolt pattern on both sides. I don't see why you couldn't just cut your own flange, and have a piece of 1" tube welded to it.


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#153 · (Edited)
Out with the old


and in with the new


The NGK's are iridium, the correct spec gap, one step colder than stock and are a correct cross ref to the previously posted Bosch units and miles better than the Splitfires.
 
#154 ·
Looking good!

Did you ever figure out the waste gate issue? I know that you posted in the Callaway Turbo thread that your boost reference is coming off of the intake elbow, which is perfect.
 
#155 ·
Not yet I've got to get a move permit tomorrow to get my CAT installed along with a short flex joint and a bung for wideband. Recommendations for a nice wideband that will blend somewhat into a mk1? Suggestions on best location to install the Bung?
 
#158 · (Edited)
:banghead: :laugh:

Stock location was up in the cast manifold...but anywhere before the CAT should be fine. Do you need to pull the turbo off for this or will they let you by with just a CAT install?

Quick question about your setup...do you have the OEM narrowband O2 in there now? I'm assuming that you do somewhere in the system, or was it deleted at some point with the turbo? If it's gone, what controls your frequency valve system? If you do have the narrowband, it is all that you need for emissions as it's what keeps the frequency valve and fueling under control beyond just setting the air meter plate screw.

For the wideband, you can use the Innovate MTX-L to control your narrowband signal to replace the stock narrowband sensor. It has an output signal wire that's designed for this purpose...point being, if you have a narrowband installed now, you can just swap it with the wideband, install the gauge, program the output, and you'll be up and running in no time.

As far as period correct look for the gauge, I don't think you'll find one that works well and looks correct. I think the Innovate gauge is one of the best ones out there and worth the $150.00 for sure. You could always mount it in the govebox or something to stay hidden except for when you tune. I just put mine down in the clock slot in the lower console and put my Callaway boost gauge in the slot under the radio so I didn't hack up my dash.





 
#159 ·
Thanks I saw a nice thread on this unit as well on the VWV CIS forum that explains how to use it to control the fueling. Looks like you are doing the same thing.http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5635827-Tuning-CIS-using-a-wideband-controller I saw a few negative comments about the reliability of this brand vs. others but for those where it works they seem to love it. I like the idea of having the gauge and controller in one unit as in the Innovate 3845 to keep the system install simple (look at my previous threads on all the extra wiring under my dash!). Thoughts?

My Oxygen Sensor is installed in a port near the top of the downpipe but cant see where the wiring goes or if it is even in use. I'm trying to get my head around whether it is used in conjunction with the Microfueler or not. My full throttle enrichment unit is not there as well so i am assuming the Microfueler is acting in its place. The ND Callaway manual shows both with the O2 sensor and without options. At this stage I'm considering using the wideband simply as a tool to evaluate if my existing systems are functioning enough to ensure I am not running too lean or if I am at risk. I could then also up the Deltagate pressure and see how the system reacts and if the Mfueler keeps me safe. Once I have a better baseline of functionality and proper tune I can start experimenting a bit more with the WB taking over fuel control but I'm a ways off as I slowly learn how all these things function and how they work together.:D

 
#162 ·
The 3845 is the one that I use...wiring is minimal...I keep all of my wires under the lower console where the gauge is located, so it makes for an easy install. On the O2 sensor placement, I agree with BoostedOne to keep it a bit downstream of the turbo...mine is under the car just after the pipe flattens out and sits horizontally to the ground.

For your OEM sensor, it should be a single wire unit that connects to the very simple computer on the car. It is used to give input voltage to the frequency valve that is mounted on the side of the fuel distributor (has an electrical connection on it). It's designed to fine tune the mixture based on the narrow band input signal for emissions control and also used with the WOT switch to go to a default voltage on the frequency valve independent of O2 readings. If you don't have a WOT switch anymore due to the micro fueler install, it's very likely that this is a non-functional component on your car. If yours is non-functional, then you really don't have a use for the narrow band input from the Innovate meter and would only be functional as an informational gauge (but very useful with tuning!). Keep in mind that even if you are not using the signal from the narrow band, that you still need the frequency valve functioning on a cis-e lambda fuel distributor (you can't just unplug it). The frequency valve is kind of like a fuel injector that pulses to help with the mixture control that manages the control pressure on the air meter plate...when set at it's default voltage, it is thinking that your car is always at WOT. This would be a problem if you didn't have the micro fueler for extra WOT fuel as you'd be lean on top, but can be fully functional as yours is set up if done correctly.

As for the micro fueler, it is a very primitive unit and takes no input from the oxygen sensor system. The only thing it uses for triggering is boost pressure and once triggered, it dumps a single value of fuel. It does not have any provisions for incremental metering amounts of boost or fuel amounts...it's basically off or on.

Hopefully this helps you figure this out...I'll PM you my cell number if you'd like to call and discuss as you can write a book on this stuff!...just remember that I'm on East Coast time.... :laugh:
 
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