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84 Rabbit GTI track build

49K views 201 replies 35 participants last post by  PerkeyTurkey 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a continuation of a previous build moving in to a new car. My 83 had bent frame rails and was never a solid start. There should be some quick progression in this thread since I will just be swapping my nearly finished project from the 83 to the 84. The 84 is overall clean but needed some repairs to the lower half of the core support. The 84 is being repaired and will start to get a slew of parts transferring from the 83 upon completion of the core support repairs.

Specs are as follows:
Engine:
OBD2 ABA bored .050
Wossner forged 12.3:1 high compression pistons
SCCH knife edged crank shaft
SSCH lightened intermediate shaft
ARP headstuds
Techtonics Tuning HD valve springs
Techtonics Tuning chromoly retainers
Techtonics Tuning adjustable cam gear
Techtonics Tuning lightweight intermediate shaft gear
Port and polished OBD2 head converted to solid lifters and clearanced for oversized cam
+2mm Supertech stainless intake valves
+1mm Supertech stainless exhaust valves
Kent Cam Race 300* race cam
Racelang 4-2-1 stainless header
Techtonics Tuning 2.25 stainless catless exhaust with magnaflow muffler, using v-band clamps
Megasquirt v2 engine management
Nubwerks ABA intake flange with custom runners to fit Mikuni 43mm throttle bodies from GSXR750
1.8t 31# injectors
16v windage tray
Mocal 19 row oil cooler and sandwich plate with Goodyear -8 hose and Integrated Engineering -8 black fittings






Transmission:
CRU coded O2A from passat 16v
OE flywheel lightened to 14 lbs
Sachs VR6 clutch disk and pressure plate
O2A mounts to fit MK1
Pedal clutster and brake master cylinder brackets built to house hydraulic conversion





Suspension:
SCCH 2" spherical drop pin kit
Prothane polyurethane bushings
EuroSport camber plates





Brakes:
Corrado Girling 60 calipers and 11" front rotors
mk2 rear disk conversion
Stoptech braided steel brake lines
Mintex red brake pads

Wheels and Tires:
949 Racing 6UL 15x8 +36 offset 11.6 lbs per wheel
205/50/15 Toyo RA1

Safety:
4 point welded DOM .090 roll bar and rear strut brace
MOMO fiberglass bucket seat
Stroud 5 point seatbelt
MOMO wheel, NRG quick release hub
MK1 steering column lowered 1.5"

Electrical:
EZ Wiring 18 circuit mini kit
Painless Performance rocker switches
MK1 oil temp, oil pressure, volt meter gauges
Porsche 944 8k tachometer
Innovate motorsports LM1 AFR gauge

Some previous and current progression photos:

Day I brought the 84 home


Pulling the JH and trans out


Core support damage



New core support from the junk yard (yes I am staying square)


Old core support removed

To conclude this first post I am ready to fit the new core support to the 84. That should happen this weekend. I will be pulling everything from the 84 and putting it in the 83 to sell as a complete car. wiring interior engine trans etc... until next time... :peace:
 
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#60 ·
Found what I need for the fuel pump. I needed an adapter from metric to a barb but they didn't have the correct barb size so I had to go metric to AN to a barb. Found what I needed from summit racing. So I ordered a 10mm to -8AN adapter



From there I needed -8AN to 1/2" hose barb



Now I should be able to finish the fuel system and the tank end. I placed an order with NubWorks for a billet fuel rail. That should be in my hands next week. I need to start working out the ITB manifold soon. The fuel rail will help with that project.
 
#66 ·
The sunroof has spot welds all around the opening. Any spot weld tool or drill bit to drill them out works. Once those are split there is a couple horizontal supports near the B pillar that need to be cut. I used I metal cutting disk to separate them.

Pesch quality... I'm not a body work professional but in my mind they need refinement. If they were gonna be molded in, probably not a bad start. Sitting on top of the fenders and quarters, the won't sit flush as is. If you were super picky they would need glass work to sit flush.
 
#67 ·
The idea of the support bars is to prevent the beam from flexing under heavy cornering. It's called a toe stabilizer. The kit can be had for $400 through scch-heads.com or usrt. I found a build thread on here and used similar materials of a guy that mad his own. Saved about $250 from off the shelf options.
 
#69 ·
SCCH sells the same setup. Any idea why the rod ends need to be mounted to the drop towers? Why not come up with a simple bracket that connects to the lower shock mount? I understand how this helps with toe deflection, but I need to think about how this aids with torsion.

Did you add any weep holes to allow moisture to drain?

-Todd
 
#71 · (Edited)
To my understanding would be for A) leverage and B) spare tire well clearance. There is a design I have seen the the rod ends are mounted lower and further out, and with a bunch of extra bracing.

No, I did not add any weep holes to drain water. Good idea. I can just put a small hole near the top easily.

In case any of you have never seen it, this is what a real Berg Cup suspension looks like.

Jared doesn't rely make stuff anyone unfortunately, though I am thinking of building my own version, a little more bracing though.
Well hello Crisdean. I though Jared was building it all for USRT to distribute.
 
#73 ·
Ah, spare tire clearance. Sometimes the obvious escapes you. I still can't wrap my head around the torsion part, but the pic you posted shows a torsion bar that I understand.

Years ago I bought som DOM tubing to make a Shine styled rear bar, but never got around to it.

-Todd
 
#74 ·
Yesterday, I was able to make a trip to the junk yard for a couple items. I picked up a pair of aluminum mk4 rear calipers, a pair of mk3 rear disk spindles, all the hardware, an O2J shift tower, and the O2J cable ends. I should have it all cleaned up this week to install. I need to pick up some rear rotors, bearings, make some brake lines and assemble everything. Pics to come.
 
#83 · (Edited)
Well I've made a little progress on the GTI as of last night. Haven't had a lot of motivation and I have been fairly busy. I took a trip to Costa Rica so I have been saving my money for that trip so that is partially the reason for no progress. Pinching pennies here and there. Also had to replace the a/c compressor on my Jetta.

A few weeks back I sold my 949 Racing wheels and Toyo street tires and with that money I purchased a set of Konig Hypergrams in matte bronze. I also picked up a set of 225/45/15 Toyo RA1 tires to mount on them.




Yesterday I decided it was time to get the rear beam back in the car. I still need mk3 carriers to bolt the mk4 rear calipers on. I also need mk2/3 rear disk wheel bearings. The BNIB wheel bearings i have are for mk1 rear drum. Once it is all assembled I can start building brake lines. :peace:




Another big update soon as well... I'll make that one as soon as I get some good photos.
 
#87 · (Edited)
Alright, so the caddy is gonna take some work to get it going but I am not going to let that interfere with the GTI. I need to rebuild the injection pump and it should be good. When I can afford the tools to time the pump etc I will probably have the IP serviced at the same time. Hopefully soon.

I was able to pick up the correct rear wheel bearings a couple days ago. Mounted them up and got the rear disks on the car. I am a little disappointed that the front tires hang past the stock fenders and the rears do not. I didn't want to run spacers but its now looking that way for now to fill out the berg flares on the rear... oh well.. I need to get new bolts for the lower shock mount so I can tighten up the rear suspension and get the car back on the ground.




More to come this weekend. :peace:
 
#88 · (Edited)
Got bolts for the lower shock mounts in the beam and sat the car on the ground for the first time since I gut the rear. This is with bilstein shocks and nuespeed springs in the rear. Needs to be about 2 inches lower. Also sitting with a 21mm spacer in the rear. Im going to start working on the rear brake lines once I get the mk3 carriers. Maybe that can happen sunday.







 
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