So, I acquired a Darling (Flaming Pile or Potential, v2.0) - Page 7
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    1. #151
      Senior Member danny_16v's Avatar
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      I think that Shrick intake is pretty cool. They are definitely rare. Not really worth it to me over M50 manifold swap... but they don't lose much low end torque and can be modified to make as much top end as M50... but that would cost like $700 to get it honed out.
      GLi : M3 : CX5
      OSD#2

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    3. #152
      Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PoorHouse View Post
      Excellent update!

      Now sell me the spare S52.
      Yes! So he can put it in the 318!

      Chris
      | 20 Ram | 13 Altima | 00 Tahoe | 94 Integra GS-R | 74 SuperBeetle | 62 Ford Unibody |

    4. #153
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      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      Yes! So he can put it in the 318!

      Chris


    5. #154
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Deconstruction has started - tearing out the Dove interior, removing the Contours and prepping for sale, and diagnosing the MAF CEL code (most likely a broken wire issue in the loom, unfortunately)










    6. #155
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Put in some time on the car over the last couple of days, mainly continuing to strip the interior so that I can start putting the 1997 interior in. Also, practice makes perfect, especially when you're trying to take apart a 20 or 21-year-old BMW interior - however, the E36 has been pretty wonderful to take apart so far.



      I excised the Omega Excalibur alarm. It constantly locked the doors and immobilized the starter if you looked at it the wrong way. It had to go. We'll have to wait to see if my uninstall was successful.







      I pulled the center console and seats to reveal a plethora of garbage and spare change. The spare change has amounted to $1.31 so far. The wrappers are primarily these "Bombay Sweet Supari" - a form of betel nut. Perhaps the previous/original owner was of the Asian/Indian/Middle Eastern persuasion (or a -phile). There were about a dozen scattered about the car - the guy I bought the car from also claimed to clean out a bunch of trash.

      Speaking of change, I'm going to keep a tally of the rebuild costs in the thread. I don't usually like to talk money, but the amount of spare change kinda inspired me to tally up the money I'll be putting into this car. I also spent a bunch of money on new parts on the past couple weeks, so this will keep me on an even keel in terms of spending any more money.

      So far, I'm at:


      $2,900 - original purchase price
      $478.13 - Clutchmaster FX250 (Stage 2?2.5?) clutch - the one in the 1997 is getting kinda high in pedal travel and has about 100k on it. Probably ought to replace it while I'm in there, and this was apparently a VERY good deal for a Clutchmasters clutch. The E34 M5 clutch that I was also eyeing was over $500 w/ sales tax.
      $119.99 - Bimmerworld SS brake lines
      $111.19 - FCP clutch install kit - rear main seal, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, and some other junk
      $201.58 - new Zimmerman brake rotors - these will eventually be warrantied to FCP since I'll be replacing the rusty rotors from the 1997. Might as well replace them since they'll be free, but for now they're expensed until I can get the old ones off and sent into FCP.
      $90 - Garagistic DSSR shift linkage
      $48 - Garagistic delrin shifter bushings
      $29 - Garagistic SS clutch line - I originally bought the Garagistic one, forgot about it, and ordered one from Bimmerworld by mistake. I'll have to pick one and send the other one back (unless my buddy wants the other one for his E36)
      $29.99 - Bimmerworld SS clutch line
      $25.07 - CT sales tax on orders placed at FCP

      Running total: $4,032

      Keep in mind there will be parts sales to bring the total down. Will try and keep this under $5k, but seeing the total now, I'm hoping I can keep it under $4k

    7. #156
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Bumping this up, as I've made enough progress on the Mk2 VR6 such that I could get that out into the driveway and drag the 1997 in for de-construction, as well as re-installation into the 1998. Haven't spent any more money on the car to date, which is kinda cool.

      Here is the current state of affairs:





      Well start with the elephant in the room, the rear end from the 1998. Excuse the poor-quality potato pic:



      I decided to stick with the 3.15 LSD rear end from the 1997. It's known quantity, it already has poly bushings in the rear, it's going to primarily be a street car, and it 'preserves' the character of the 1997. Thus, the 3.38 LSD (pictured) from the 1998 is going to a buddy of mine who has an E36 build of his own - albeit a 328i - but his is going to be more track-biased so he could benefit more from the shorter rear gear. It's going to get all fresh bushings because the ones in there currently (likely the originals) are shot.

      Pulling it last night was a PITA, but that was most likely due to the fact that we bit ourselves by trying to take apart things 'strategically' - i.e. being lazy AF and taking the assembly apart while on the car - which ended up costing us more time in the end, and even still, it's still assembled. When we remove the rear end of the 1997, it's coming out as an assembly from the get-go.

      Removing the rear end meant pulling exhaust, which at first glance looked better than the 1997's.



      But as we pulled things apart, we noticed a bunch of Mickey Mouse repairs, including a second rear muffler hanger that was booger welded on (and crusty AF), midpipe-axleback joints that were RTV'd, and the piece de resistance, a midpipe-header joint which must have leaked at some point because someone made this repair:



      And it still leaked

      Interestingly enough, there was this message on the top part of the axleback. Not sure what we're not supposed to do...



      Thankfully I know the midpipe on the 1997 is good, so I'm going to use that, and then use the 1998 axleback portion.





      Moving onto the interior...the Dove interior from the 1998 is completely stripped out. Floors and everything look great, as they should. The 1997 interior is mostly gone save for the carpet, dash, and a couple door panels. Those will get done today. I removed all remnants of the bitchin' 2001 Sony Xplod stereo that was in the 1998, so I'm going to throw the head unit from the 1997 in and test everything before throwing the carpet in. I'm hoping the wiring from the 1998 - which had a factory harman/kardon system - is still present and that it works with the non-h/k speakers that are in the door panels of the 1997 that are going in the car.

      I have this week off from work, so the goal is to get most everything off the 1997 that I want/need such that I can toss the remnants of the car onto my trailer and pick at it while I get the rest of the 1998 finished.

    8. #157
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      My staycation is ending today with the interior of the 1997 stripped of everything except for the wiring. Still haven't stripped down the drivetrain, but I'll need help with that - and since the holidays are around the corner and we'll be travelling to see family, I won't get a chance to get to it until after the new year.

      The following is the first transplant pieces going into the 1998



      Dashboard test fitted and carpet installed. Pretty straightforward. I also checked to see if the radio wiring is still good and works with the headunit and door panel speakers from the 1997 - it does. Radio reception is non-existant, but I'm not sure if it's 1) due to a malfunctioning amplifier or the window tint (looks like the old metallized stuff) or 2) due to the fact the car is in a concrete bunker (which is currently taking on water at the moment)

    9. #158
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      Cool stuff! Interesting to be able to decide between 96 vs. 97 part-by-part.

    10. #159
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
      Cool stuff! Interesting to be able to decide between 96 vs. 97 part-by-part.
      I'm glad that I came across another E36 M3 (and a silver one at that) instead of transplanting everything from the 1997 into any E36 shell. The shortfalls of the 1998 car - shot suspension, automatic, interior that wasn't my taste - were easily addressed by the parts from the 1997. But, most importantly, it is a clean title (1997 was a rebuilt title originally) and the shell is amazingly clean - the jack points are spotless.

      And arguably, those parts I'm taking from the 1997 were its strengths anyway. It was a 5-speed, good suspension, the motor has been gone through - new HG, cooling system, and others addressed in late 2016/early 2017 - and I prefer the black interior to Dove. The body had seen better days, even before the accident. Paint chips, mismatched doors (I had replaced 3 of the 4 doors that didn't quite match the silver of the body) and rust - spots around the seams, bottoms of the fenders, and the RF jack point was completely gone.

      So, in re-shelling the 1997 (which is essentially what I'm doing) I've essentially fixed most of the flaws of the 1997 in the first place. The paint still isn't perfect on the 1998 - there's a long key mark on the driver side, and some fading here and there, but overall it's very respectable, especially for 20 years and 203,000 miles.

      Being able to keep the S52 from the 1998 is a bonus - either I sell it and pay back a chunk of the cost spent on purchasing the 1998, or it's a readily available replacement when the 1997 motor goes tits up. I may have also planted the seeds in a friend of mine to use it to replace the tired M20 in his E21

    11. #160
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Untitled by Steve W, on Flickr

      Still making slow, steady progress on the swap.

      The interior is all out of the 1997 and is either sitting in my basement or installed in the 1998. The front clip is 50% pulled on the 1998 and gone in the 1997 - as a matter of fact, I got the engine/trans pulled tonight. All that remains to be pulled from the 1997 is the rear diff, subframe, and suspension. The front subframe and suspension/steering rack will also need to be pulled, then the car will go for scrap. Hoping to get that out of the way since I have a Subaru coming in soon that may need head gaskets (surprise surprise).

      Random pics of progress...

      Interior mostly installed in the 1998...













      And the piece de resistance...



      The timeline to complete the 1998 has considerably slowed, due to the advent of the Subaru and the reason for it...little one is due in June. My job will have me travelling this spring so I'll get some time here and there to get the 1998 engine/trans pulled, get the 1997's engine cleaned up, and refresh the trans with new detents, clutch, and seals.

    12. #161
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Got the detents done yesterday with the help of a friend who had the tools and was fresh from doing the detents on both of his ZF 5-speeds this past week.





      I cleaned up the trans a bit after I took those photos - the shift shaft seal has been leaking collected a fair bit of grime. I'll still need to do the shift shaft seal, but for now, I'm going to focus on the front and rear subframes to get the car ready for scrap.

      I was also curious and pulled the clutch off the '97 motor. Yeah, it was done. Never had any slippage problems, but I knew it was getting up there in mileage and thought it was prudent to change it out when I had it apart. What came out was a Clutchmasters Stage 3 pressure plate and an organic disk (unsure of the manufacturer) w/ what looks to be an eBay single mass flywheel (weighs 14 lbs on the bathroom scale). Going to get the flywheel resurfaced and then replace it with the Clutchmasters kit I bought last fall.







      Which reminds me...haven't updated my total running project costs in a while. I've sold a bunch of parts off the 1998, about $1,900 worth so far, and I haven't really bought much for the car since.

      $4,032 - 12/18/2018 total
      ($201.58) - FCP return on the brake rotors
      ($1.31) - spare change found in the '98 interior
      ($29) - sold the Garagistic clutch line to my buddy
      ($1,900) - parts sold (actually a little over, but I don't have the exact figure in front of me)
      +$96.12 - ZF detent kit
      +$64.49 - new Guibo - yeah the old one was original and definitely in need of replacement. Like the clutch, I'm surprised I didn't have any apparent problems with the old one
      +$10.20 - CT state sales tax
      _____________________

      Total (rounded up to the nearest dollar): $2,071

    13. #162
      Member VWmk3GTI's Avatar
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      That flywheel surface is pretty gnarly
      Quote Originally Posted by PlatinumGLS View Post
      Iím not judgmental, so when I see a person push the wrong pedal, I never assume what gender she is.
      Quote Originally Posted by Crimping Is Easy View Post
      Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you criticize him, you're a mile away and you have his shoes.

    14. #163
      Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Stevo12 View Post
      ...Total (rounded up to the nearest dollar): $2,071
      Daaaaaamn, son! Thatís amazing! Thatís a good ROI, as long as you donít figure in your time. (Donít even think about it!)

      Are you sure,you want to use a cheap-o flywheel, though? (I donít know whatís a good idea/bad idea when it comes to dual mass flywheels or BMWs).
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    15. #164
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Revising my total, as I opened my spreadsheet and saw my revised sold-parts total as $2,003 (rounded down) instead of an estimated $1,900.

      So Iím now down to $1,968 total.

      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Daaaaaamn, son! Thatís amazing! Thatís a good ROI, as long as you donít figure in your time. (Donít even think about it!)

      Are you sure,you want to use a cheap-o flywheel, though? (I donít know whatís a good idea/bad idea when it comes to dual mass flywheels or BMWs).
      Yeah, Iím trying not to think of that either. Some days Iím doubting myself as to why Iím doing this, when I have a ton of other stuff piling up. But I tell myself that it was either this, or buying a Mk7 GTI SE, which are mid-20s used, so in my mind Iím way ahead haha.

      The flywheel is a single mass unit, so it just needs a resurface. I showed the PO the clutch pics and he told me his wife installed it IIRC from when I bought it, it was a used clutch to begin with. That clutch definitely owed nobody anything.

    16. #165
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Brought the E36 to the scrapper this morning, they didn't accept it because it wasn't cut in thirds.



      Didn't have that problem with the Mk2 last year...and it was on a sketchy trailer arrangement to boot



    17. #166
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Called another yard...an hour later, $40 in my pocket.



      Sold the remains of the interior from the other car for $100, so the updated total is now $1,858

    18. #167
      I could not unsee a thunderbird turbo coupe with that hood

    19. #168
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Amazingly, I'm still at it with this car. 2019 was a whirlwind of a year, with lots of work travel and a newborn. Plus, I was determined to hit the track in 2020 with my VR6-swapped Mk2, so I focused what little time I had - you know, aside from the rehab projects I picked up (the Subaru and Silverado) - on getting that mechanically together enough to survive some shakedown autocross sessions.

      Then, 2020 happened. Instead of providing us with an opportunity to adjust to our new life as parents, it threw us a curveball (first of many). Among which was our son being home from daycare from March-July. Now, I'm not complaining that we got to witness such milestones as crawling, first unassisted steps, and ultimately to walking - but that kind of duty on top of trying to work 40+ hours a week just doesn't allow for much free time, even despite gaining back a few hours a week due to the lack of commute.

      Anyway...the car. As I said, the Mk2 VR6 was consuming my time. I started Winter 2019 with the caged shell minus the engine, basically the same state it had sat in since mid-2018. By June 2020, I had the VR6 in there and wired up, and minus some minor issues (did not want to start hot, which I traced down to some junk injectors) I was able to get a few autocross shakedown events in by the end of the season.


      Anyway...the BMW! That's what this thread is about, stupid! OK.....

      Last I left this thread, I had just junked the 1997 shell. The 1998 pretty much sat in the same state (bay on the left) while the Mk2 VR6 occupied the right bay while it was getting worked on.

      When we left off:


      Fast forward somewhat:


      One thing I did do to the E36 while the Mk2 was under the knife is pull out the OG engine and automatic transmission from the '98 and set them aside. Recall from earlier in the thread, I'm using the 1997 engine and transmission, even with more mileage, because I'd previously gone through and done a bunch of re-gasketing and oil system mods. The 1998 engine runs well, but is otherwise untested. It'll end up either as a spare for this car (and will give me time to go through it) or in another car; I've put the bug into my brother's and a friend's ears (with an E30 and E21, respectively) that I could make it available to them if they so wished. I'd rather see it go into another cool car in my personal orbit than sell it for the insane money that these are going for.





      I also performed a front subframe swap - control arms, tie rods, engine mounts, PS lines were all newer items vs. the worn junk on the 1998 - and replaced the bushings in the rear subframe from the 1997 and mounted that as well. For the first time in a long time (2 years) it was finally a roller again:







      With the car rolling again with fantastic levels of wheel gap, I switched garage bays. The reason was two-fold: the Mk2 was nearing completion (it was driving at that point) and I was getting ready to do the heavy swap work on the BMW and wanted the bigger bay for that task; I was also getting a concrete floor put in the storage room behind where the BMW had been sitting, and wanted to make the job easier for the guys doing it.

      Finally getting to present times. The BMW once again sat for a while in the right bay while I tidied up some items on the Mk2 to make the last few autocross events of a shortened season due to COVID. I knocked out a couple easy items in the meantime, like assembling the new clutch components I'd had for the last 2 years. I used the bread method to get the pilot bearing out, science is neat:



      Not sure if you want an organic or puck clutch? Clutchmasters has you covered with their hybrid FX250 kit.






      I also assembled the ZF with new detents (2 years ago ) and new delrin shifter bushings, shift shaft seal, and rag joint. I have a Garagistic DSSR that's going in once I get the engine and trans in the car. I'm keeping the stock E36 M3 shifter arm in the car because I didn't necessarily care about the throw length, I just wanted to tighten up the feel with the new bushings and selector rod.

      When I parted out the 1997, I couldn't remember if I pulled the hard line for the master cylinder. A friend of mine was parting a 1998 328i for parts for his E36 race car, and offered the line from that car, since he didn't need it. Well, that turned into a bit of a rabbit hole. There was a change in the clutch master cylinder design sometime in 1997 for the E36, and of course my 1997 was the old design, and the pedal bracket is not compatible. So I had to get the pedal bracket, master, hard line, and supply line from him.



      Shortly after opening the box of clutch stuff, I found the hard line from my 1997 in another box. I think I pitched the 1997's master cylinder and was probably just going to replace with new. So now I have both setups that I can use, I might just use the 1998 setup, since I have the master on-hand now and it's a more durable design.

      And now it brings us to yesterday. I decided to roll out the E36 to power wash the engine bay in anticipation of installing the engine and trans.




      I wasn't going for Larry Kosilla-levels of clean, but it'll be more than sufficient for a 200k-mile driver. While I was in there, my buddy texted me to remind me that I need to pull the steering rack out to put the engine in. Now, I've pulled S52's twice so you would think I would have remembered that detail. I decided to humor him since he knows way more about BMWs that I do, and told him he's gonna be the one to help me put the steering rack in when the engine's in the car. In taking out the rack, I remembered how horrible of a job it was, and then remembered that I did indeed have to pull the rack midway through the job of pulling the engine....BOTH TIMES. So yeah, this time I'm being smart about it.



      And that's caught up on almost 2 more years with this car. My plan is to have this driving by my 34th birthday in March, and have it be my 3-season daily driver. I'll only need to have my son in rear-facing for 3 months before he turns 2 and can be front facing and much more manageable for front passengers. I can't wait to do burnouts with him in the car and have him experience a fun car at "don't tell Mom speed" at a young age.

    20. #169
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Some nights you make fantastic progress. Other ones you make it as far as taking some door trim off.

      In the interest of getting some parts out of the way, I re-installed the door cards on every door except the driver's door, which still needs a little bit of work on the window tracks and exterior door handle. I broke a few clips on the front passenger door as expected, so I'll likely order some, lose them for a few years, and then find them when I go to install the updated window tints (whenever I get around to it).



      I mentioned the drivers door needed some help. It's the only side window that's not tinted, because I think at one point the window broke and was replaced by a shop with a 6/10 rating. Not the best or cleanest work, and also part of the rubber track was missing. Additionally, unlike my 1997, the exterior door handle was hanging up on the rest of the assembly, in that it wasn't returning fully when opened.

      Fixing the window tracks involved digging through boxes to get the window switches out and connecting the battery for the first time since 2018. Nothing. Then I realized I needed to get the main engine bay harness out so I could connect the fuse box (which is on the driver side of the engine bay) to the distribution block (which is fed by the battery in the trunk) on passenger side of the engine bay.

      With that sorted, I got the first part of the track in, and then wound up the window to get the track pulled down the rest of the way. Then I went digging again for other part of the track - the part that wraps up the upper part of the door frame and around the front part of the door where it meets the A-pillar - and came up empty handed. I thought I had pulled them from the 1997 before I junked it.

      I then moved on to the door handle. I thought that by winding up the window, I'd have to remove the handle and be able to clearance the part of the assembly that it was hanging up on. But as it turns out, I could just file the bottom part of the handle from the outside while still on the car, so that's I did.

      In preparing to remove the handle, I pulled the crumbling gasket trim off. Fearing I had to sink some money into this car at some point, I did a quick search of my order history and found that I'd bought new gaskets for the 1997...3+ years ago. Amazingly, I found them and will install them on ALL of the door handles, now that I know how simple it is to remove the trim. I vaguely remember attempting to remove the trim when I did the door swap on the 1997 and getting completely flummoxed.



      Oh, and the window track? I finally did find it...I'd mislabeled it being the Front Right window track (which doesnt' need to be replaced on the 1998) despite the fact that it doesn't fit the Front Right (it's side-specific). I must have been drunk the night I pulled it off. Anyway, that took up my half hour for the night, so it'll get installed at a later time. Same with the deteriorating trunk seal, which is being replaced by the 1997's trunk seal.


    21. #170
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      After being convinced that I'd labeled the window seal wrong, I was indeed right the first time that the window seal was for the passenger side front and was not the driver side front that I'd been looking for. So, I must have junked the car with it still installed, which makes no sense because I have the others Oh well, the junkiness of the 1998's window seal is on the inside, duct tape residue from the aforementioned shoddy window repair; there's also residue on the outside of the door frame that'll need to be buffed out.

      Then I fell down the rabbit hole and spent way longer in the shop than I intended, and didn't get much done.

      When I pulled the motor from the 1998, I left the A/C compressor attached to the lines and the car because the A/C worked and I didn't want to rebuild the A/C system after leaving it open for a couple years. When I pulled the motor from the 1997, I left the compressor attached to the motor because well, I was junking the rest of the car. So, I needed to pull the compressor in preparation of putting the 1997 engine in the 1998. I got 3 out of 4 bolts out, and then snapped #4. I figured, I would just remove the bracket from the 1998 engine and install it while I had both motors out. Well, turns out there are two bolts that are covered by the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, in addition to the 4 (!!) bolts that are easily accessible from the side of the motor. In addition, on the engine cradle I built, the front of the motor is resting on the tensioner, so I needed to get the weight off that in order to take the bracket off.

      That turned into, let's lift the motor up with the hoist -> which turned into "I should really remove the transmission from 1998 motor" -> which turned into a sh*theap of lifting the motor high enough to get clearance on the E-torx bellhousing bolts on the bottom of the motor, then spilling ATF on the ground (I hate oil spills/leaks on my unfinished concrete floor) and finally after some balancing/cursing, got the motor and transmission separated. At the end, I forgot why I was pulling the motor, and for some reason now I can't get the motor balanced on the cradle anymore. I called it in frustration and will probably get it right in 10 minutes next time I'm down there.

      Oh, and about getting the harmonic balancer off. I thought it was just 6 bolts, but when I saw what looked like a collar on the Jesus bolt, I thought I had to zing that off in order to get the balancer off. Apparently I was just missing the hammer of persuasion step in order to get the balancer off, so I will soon be doing the same to the 1997 motor in order to do the A/C compressor bracket swap.

    22. #171
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      Yay progress!

      Bread and butter method?

    23. #172
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
      Yay progress!

      Bread and butter method?
      Just bread, but 2.5 slices worth. Amazing how it compressed that much

    24. #173
      Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      Some progress today, keeping it short with the text since it's pretty self-explanatory:








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