I'd agree with staying away from 19's, unless you have glass smooth roads. Porsche recommended tire pressures jump from 30psi cold to 37psi cold for the fronts IIRC, that's a lot less give on sharp impacts.
I really like the Cayman S II wheels you have, if you want something different what about some super light OZ Alleggerita's, over 5 lbs lighter than stock per wheel, look good, not crazy expensive. Not sure how strong they are though.
BTW, you said you have warmed up to the wheels (i think they look great when they're cleaned up!). What other wheel colors and wheels have you considered?
I don't wanna go black but a platinum or gunmetal color would work too IMO. The OZ Fomula HLT could be an option but not with the fake centerlock look.
What are your recommendations? I forget what you have on yours.
Or a Forgeline like the RBC3 which comes in gunmetal with a polished lip.
With all that said, I still like what you have and I'd think you could spend money more wisely on other upgrades (or none at all, given house projects!). A change in suspension would change the look more than the wheels, I think, and would also aid in handling if you do the right setup.
Well this took longer than expected, but what a satisfying mod. The peace of mind is a huge reason why I wanted to replace the cables sooner than later too. Thought about the short shifter from Numeric Racing as well, but figured I should prioritize other areas first.
The cables had a lot of hype and they did not disappoint. Looked really solid and stop me if you've heard this before, but "they should've been like this from the factory." Also bought the wrench which was incredibly handy. If there's any room for improvement, it's to include the wrench with the cables to begin with, then offer a zero-cost "wrench delete" option for those who don't want it.
Removing the console wasn't too bad, just tedious being careful not to break any tabs. Spoiler alert: I broke 2 tabs. The radio surrounds need to be pulled directly out without any twisting at all. But with the other 2 tabs still in tact and being held by screws at the bottom, they're fine.
Getting the stock cables out near this end was quite easy.
I decided on getting the tool for locking the shifter in neutral. Fortunately Pelican had it in stock and I picked it up via will-call. Well worth the $5.75.
Just so happened they were having an open house too.
Getting the cables off the transmission bracket on the driver's side was a lot harder, until I tried using a wrench which did the trick.
My neighbor was doing some work in his garage and as a cyclist, figured he probably had a thinner wrench which would make popping off the cables even easier. He let me borrow the tool below and yup, I had it off in 2 seconds.
Cables out! To compound his generosity, he also gave me the remainder of a 6-pack of porters that a friend gave him. Apparently purchased at the 99 cent store and well, he doesn't like porters so I gladly took them off his hands and gave him a full 6-pack of super hoppy IPAs that I don't really like. Nice.
Stock shifter out as well.
Took the old silicone hose and cut it in a not-very-neat spiral and wrapped the new cables with them. Fun fact: spirals are also a great way to cut your hot dogs before grilling them.
Tightening the new cable to the brackets. Not much room in there.
New cables installed.
Reused the original grommet but had to slice it open first.
To get the reverse cable on the plastic boss, I lined it up and got it halfway on, then used a little persuasion to get it fully seated. I was having a little trouble with adjusting the shift selector cable (kept coming up short) until I realized the selector on the transmission end was in 3rd. Once I popped it back into neutral, all was swell.
All buttoned up and ready for a test drive, which ended up being 29 glorious miles long.
Honestly, at this point I have no desire to upgrade any further. Yes the throws can be shorter and tighter, but I feel the current level suits the car's character perfectly for a daily driver with the occasional canyon run. I'd rather use that money on springs or I don't know,...maybe a front-load washer.
As soon as I saw you cut the shielding in a spiral I knew hot dogs were coming.
Congrats Kiz, that's quite the job to tackle on your own. Enjoy the rewards!
Wow, good job! Replacing my cables are on my list as well, but I'm thinking of tempting fate and putting it off until after a new set of wheels and PS4S tires. Was planning on the updated Porsche cables, perhaps with a GT3 shifter as well.
I must have missed it, these are the Numeric cables?
But I can also the appeal of doing everything at once.
Took care of some simple, yet gratifying mods over the weekend.
First up was replacing the aging gas struts for the frunk. Ordered the OEM Stabilus ones from FCP Euro and glad to see they come pre-lubricated.
Propped the bonnet open using the Porsche special tool (part no. 987-HD-YS-JK-TTYL) which held it at the perfect angle for replacing them.
Popped off the retaining clips and they easily came off. I'll do the trunk ones eventually.
The switch for opening the frunk was intermittently not working due to the plastic being worn out. New one acquired.
Removed the 2 caps on the door sill next to the Nike swoosh logo.
That "reveals" 2 socket head screws that require a 5 mm allen wrench. I used quotes because they're buried behind the carpet. The one closer to the rear of the seat is harder to access unless you have a short allen wrench, but it's doable.
Once they're loose, the sill comes off by prying the clips loose and pulling straight up. Put the new one in and we're good there.
Lastly I replaced Key #1 as it was missing the lock/unlock button. Upon disassembly, many dingleberries were discovered.
Just for kicks, I called the dealer and got the following quote:
New key = $482.22...
Programming labor = $117...
Yeah, no. So I got a new OEM key fob from Suncoast for $190 and transferred the key, transmitter, and the immobilizer pill.
I read several stories of people having to destroy their old key fob to get the pill out (it's glued in), but that wasn't an issue with the right tool.
Just gotta place the pick in that opening and it just pops out.
Great thread Kiz! Nice Cayman!
When I get out to the west coast, I have many CL members to meet!
2013 Passat SEL Premium Dieselgate
Thanks for the update sir!
I saw the key replacement on your IG... have to remember that when I eventually buy a Porsche.
Hey Kiz, What'd you use to pry those two little caps that cover the 5mm bolts?
I have a lot of respect for those who take such nice, detailed photos of their projects. I always go in with delusions of grandeur that I'm going to document my work to share (such as my recent Mini suspension rebuild), only to get sucked into the project and can't be bothered to break my momentum to take pictures.
We are buying cars! If you have an exceptional classic/collector/enthusiast vehicle of any generation, please DM me! www.hymanltd.com
Sometimes I wonder why it takes me longer than most to do stuff...then I remember I can save time by not documenting it, but I obviously enjoy that aspect.
You did what? You needed a $20 keyshell off amazon.
The broken button is extremely common for 987/997 cars. I've had broken ones on both the 997.2 and the 987.2. Even a brand new keyshell from Porsche directly doesn't hold up, I got a new unused key with the 911 when I bought it (they were short one and I asked them to provide 2 with the car so they made a new one) and it didn't hold up either. The amazon key shells I've bought are the same quality and tactility as the OE based on comparing them.
I ended up doing a DIY mod on a new key shell last year after being tired of having a broken button every 7 months or so. I got the new key shell with its parts and reinforced a tiny tab on the plastic underside of the buttons. I epoxied a sliver of aluminum from a soda can to the little part of the plastic tab that breaks. It's held for a year now, so time will tell. I think it's going to last though.