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    The Car Lounge
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    1. #101
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      Bought a boat today.

      Took the Four Winns out for a test ride, did the full testing suggested -- all electronics worked, the speeds and the RPMs were spot on with the P.I.G., oil pressure was fine, temperature was correct. Engine started right up, ran smoothly and quietly, easily hit 53 mph on a nice smooth day, but made a point to cross my own wake to see how it handled some self-made chop.

      Bought it from the local marina just a few miles up the road, which has been there about 15 years, and in chatting with the owner found out he knew my bonus-grandmother who started bringing me up here in the late 70s -- his father sold two boats to her! Didn't know his last name, so didn't make the connection with his father's old shop. Got a very good feel from him as an upfront no-BS guy who takes good care of good customers. Knocked $1,500 off the price without me even asking. It also has a swing hitch, which means it might just barely fit into the old garage we have here for winter storage.

      So here it is: a 2006 Four Winns Horizon 200 with the Volvo Penta 5.0GXi (250 hours).

      43+P1NAmQMuaJ+FgvoVslg by David Safford, on Flickr

      nU+PuFkCQwC+QKi51IKUPA by David Safford, on Flickr

      0x2JXhGOT1yzuk9u7h1C%w by David Safford, on Flickr

      Other candidates had been a 2010 Regal 1900 ES with similar hours and a 5.0 Volvo Penta that looked very nice but didn't have the swing hitch on the trailer, and an absolutely flawless 2006 Sea Ray 20 Sport, but it had the 4.3 Mercruiser with 200 more hours, for $2k more.

      I think we're going to like this....

      Thanks for everyone's help!
      Last edited by dts; 06-04-2019 at 05:36 PM.

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    3. #102
      Member PlatinumGLS's Avatar
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      Congrats, nice boat. My first boat was a Four Winns and loved it

      The nice thing about getting a boat that can do 53 MPH isn't going 53 MPH all the time but being able to effortlessly cruise at 30-35 MPH without straining it.
      Quote Originally Posted by admirallaserbeam
      Rotary engines suck, dont get the miata
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    4. #103
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      She's a beauty!

    5. #104
      Geriatric Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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      looking sharp!

      time for a tower or a ski pylon now

    6. #105
      Turtles walk slowly, but get angry fast! Smooremin's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by The_Real_Stack View Post
      You didn't buy a Highlander tow vehicle to NOT haul your boat places. Haul it down to Chi-town so me and smoothman can go for a cruise. Beer and gas on us.
      QFT
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      About 5 oclock I realized I needed to go to Costco for some white people stuff.

    7. #106
      Here is our old Hunter 380. When it comes up that we sold her the Old Lady gets physically angry and I move my blanket and pillow to the couch.

      IMG_7972 by Shannon, on Flickr

      IMG_7714 by Shannon, on Flickr

    8. #107
      Member Maximum_Download's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by dts View Post
      Bought a boat today.

      Took the Four Winns out for a test ride, did the full testing suggested -- all electronics worked, the speeds and the RPMs were spot on with the P.I.G., oil pressure was fine, temperature was correct. Engine started right up, ran smoothly and quietly, easily hit 53 mph on a nice smooth day, but made a point to cross my own wake to see how it handled some self-made chop.

      Bought it from the local marina just a few miles up the road, which has been there about 15 years, and in chatting with the owner found out he knew my bonus-grandmother who started bringing me up here in the late 70s -- his father sold two boats to her! Didn't know his last name, so didn't make the connection with his father's old shop. Got a very good feel from him as an upfront no-BS guy who takes good care of good customers. Knocked $1,500 off the price without me even asking. It also has a swing hitch, which means it might just barely fit into the old garage we have here for winter storage.

      So here it is: a 2006 Four Winns Horizon 200 with the Volvo Penta 5.0GXi (250 hours).

      Other candidates had been a 2010 Regal 1900 ES with similar hours and a 5.0 Volvo Penta that looked very nice but didn't have the swing hitch on the trailer, and an absolutely flawless 2006 Sea Ray 20 Sport, but it had the 4.3 Mercruiser with 200 more hours, for $2k more.

      I think we're going to like this....

      Thanks for everyone's help!
      The Sea Ray would have been a mistake. I don't feel they are built as well as FW and Regal, and you only get Merc power options, which as you see results in things like a 4.3L Alpha One on a luxury sport boat.

      Very well done. And you have the new style Volvo SX drive, too.

      A few points to consider:

      1. This drive has a trim motor pump OUTSIDE the boat, on the transom shield. It is known for leaking, and there is an updated part. So if you ever have issues raising and lowering the drive, that's usually the culprit. Here's where it's located...it's the thing with the wires coming out of it:




      2. I see you have the standard aluminum prop. Prioritize swapping a stainless prop on that boat. It's a little pricier, but you can then keep the aluminum as a spare, and you will see slightly better performance and fuel economy out of the stainless.

      3. I could be wrong but I think I see what appears to be a minor tear in the sun pad by the hinge. Talk to a vinyl shop and get that nipped in the bud before it turns into a larger repair. Bowrider interiors are bucks to replace, so an ounce of prevention here and all that.

      4. Major maintenance items on a stern drive are bellows (the black rubber accordion things between the back of the boat and the drive, covering the U joints and exhaust), the gimbal bearing (in the same area of the transom as the bellows), and the U Joints (ditto). It's a couple of Boat Bucks to do all this (Boat Buck = $1 x 1000). Go through your repair records and see if you see anything on this. If not, I would check with a mechanic at the end of the season to see how far away you are from that. Bellows should (SHOULD) be replaced every 2-3 years (because they keep seawater out and your U Joints healthy), and on a boat from your model year, when you're in there, you may as well do the U joints and the gimbal bearing since they all live in the same apartment complex together.

      Don't be scared of this, but throw some money aside for this relatively soon in case you cannot find evidence that it was already done. And let a mechanic guide you here - if he says you're fine, listen to him and go boating.

      Here's a pic of a Mercruiser Bravo 3 that's coming off the back of the boat for service, and you can see the U Joints (and thus, where the bellows would be).



      5. Another maintenance item that is pretty cheap and easy to do but causes a lot of headaches if ignored is your impeller/water pump. Unlike Mercruiser's Alpha One (which puts it in the lower drive unit and it's a major headache to get to...which is another reason why I don't like those drives) Volvo mounts theirs on the engine. Should be on the lower leftfront of the block as you are looking at the engine - there's like 3 hoses running from it. Buy a new impeller and replace it - there's vids out on YouTube to help you, it's a 15 minute process with hand tools and time to get yourself a beer, and it will save you major headaches. Replace this every 3-4 years or so...more if you are in shallow or dirty water. Assuming Lake Champlain is clean and you likely won't stress it that much.

      6. Finally, baseline the maintenance. Give it a tune up, oil change, drive lube change, and any other minor maintenance that you don't have evidence of. It's good for a baseline going forward.

      Enjoy man. You did well.
      Last edited by Maximum_Download; 06-05-2019 at 08:59 AM.
      Matt
      2018 Toyota Highlander SE AWD, Midnight Black Metallic/Black
      2018 Four Winns H210 / 5.3L Volvo Penta V8 300 / DPS-A Duoprop drive

    9. #108
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      Quote Originally Posted by Maximum_Download View Post
      The Sea Ray would have been a mistake. I don't feel they are built as well as FW and Regal, and you only get Merc power options, which as you see results in things like a 4.3L Alpha One on a luxury sport boat.

      Very well done. And you have the new style Volvo SX drive, too.

      A few points to consider:

      1. This drive has a trim motor pump OUTSIDE the boat, on the transom shield. It is known for leaking, and there is an updated part. So if you ever have issues raising and lowering the drive, that's usually the culprit. Here's where it's located...it's the thing with the wires coming out of it:




      2. I see you have the standard aluminum prop. Prioritize swapping a stainless prop on that boat. It's a little pricier, but you can then keep the aluminum as a spare, and you will see slightly better performance and fuel economy out of the stainless.

      3. I could be wrong but I think I see what appears to be a minor tear in the sun pad by the hinge. Talk to a vinyl shop and get that nipped in the bud before it turns into a larger repair. Bowrider interiors are bucks to replace, so an ounce of prevention here and all that.

      4. Major maintenance items on a stern drive are bellows (the black rubber accordion things between the back of the boat and the drive, covering the U joints and exhaust), the gimbal bearing (in the same area of the transom as the bellows), and the U Joints (ditto). It's a couple of Boat Bucks to do all this (Boat Buck = $1 x 1000). Go through your repair records and see if you see anything on this. If not, I would check with a mechanic at the end of the season to see how far away you are from that. Bellows should (SHOULD) be replaced every 2-3 years (because they keep seawater out and your U Joints healthy), and on a boat from your model year, when you're in there, you may as well do the U joints and the gimbal bearing since they all live in the same apartment complex together.

      Don't be scared of this, but throw some money aside for this relatively soon in case you cannot find evidence that it was already done. And let a mechanic guide you here - if he says you're fine, listen to him and go boating.

      Here's a pic of a Mercruiser Bravo 3 that's coming off the back of the boat for service, and you can see the U Joints (and thus, where the bellows would be).



      5. Another maintenance item that is pretty cheap and easy to do but causes a lot of headaches if ignored is your impeller/water pump. Unlike Mercruiser's Alpha One (which puts it in the lower drive unit and it's a major headache to get to...which is another reason why I don't like those drives) Volvo mounts theirs on the engine. Should be on the lower leftfront of the block as you are looking at the engine - there's like 3 hoses running from it. Buy a new impeller and replace it - there's vids out on YouTube to help you, it's a 15 minute process with hand tools and time to get yourself a beer, and it will save you major headaches. Replace this every 3-4 years or so...more if you are in shallow or dirty water. Assuming Lake Champlain is clean and you likely won't stress it that much.

      6. Finally, baseline the maintenance. Give it a tune up, oil change, drive lube change, and any other minor maintenance that you don't have evidence of. It's good for a baseline going forward.

      Enjoy man. You did well.
      Thank you -- I'm going to print this out when I get home and stick it in my new boat folder!

      1. Will keep the trim motor pump in mind in case things go wonky.

      2. Likely going to let my wallet recover for a bit (it's smokin' hot about to burst into flames from overuse), especially since I still need to buy accessories and water toys now (bumpers, extra life vests, ropes, tube, tow rope, water skis, etc) but will put that on the future "to do" list.

      3. Yep -- that's the only flaw I could find in the interior. It's already been stitched shut with some heavy-duty thread, so while it has started I'm hoping it won't go any further. Then again, for a 13-year-old boat, it's pretty good that's the only real flaw I could find.

      4. The owner of the shop said he had his guys look at the bellows and they're fine. Since I don't have a tow vehicle (and we're about five years out from needing a new car), I'm going to have him put it in and out each year right around the time I come up (we live 500 miles away and will keep it here), so I'll have him give the boat a full inspection each year before putting it in the water.

      5. I'll take a look at those videos and will do it this summer when I come back up. Since it's on the engine it's no problem doing it on the water, yes? (probably an obvious answer, but you never know when you're brand new to something and don't even know the right questions to ask).

      6. Good idea -- I know the oil has already been changed, I'll ask about the other.

      A couple of questions:

      The owner's manual didn't come with the boat. I looked on the Four Winns site and while they have some manuals available for download, they don't have this year and model. I found some places online that had it, but they were sufficiently sketchy that I don't want to touch them (one required the download of a sketchy browser extension). Know of any good sources before I reach out to the company itself?

      Also, I'm likely going to want to install a ski pylon (not interested in a wake tower). Any ideas/suggestions?

    10. #109
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      If you're a new boat owner stick with the aluminum prop. Good thing about aluminum is that when you hit something it bends, stainless not so much. They're also cheap to replace, bottoms ends aren't.

    11. #110
      Member Maximum_Download's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MXTHOR3 View Post
      If you're a new boat owner stick with the aluminum prop. Good thing about aluminum is that when you hit something it bends, stainless not so much. They're also cheap to replace, bottoms ends aren't.
      Unless you are boating in a very rocky area, the risk is minimal. SS doesn't damage as badly as aluminum does, and there is a rubberized insert on all prop hubs that allow the prop to slip. Finally, you should have insurance that is a Yacht Policy that covers Agreed Hull Value (not depreciated value), with on water towing AND lower unit protection if you hit something.

      I wouldn't worry about this, frankly.
      Matt
      2018 Toyota Highlander SE AWD, Midnight Black Metallic/Black
      2018 Four Winns H210 / 5.3L Volvo Penta V8 300 / DPS-A Duoprop drive

    12. #111
      Member Maximum_Download's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by dts View Post
      Thank you -- I'm going to print this out when I get home and stick it in my new boat folder!

      1. Will keep the trim motor pump in mind in case things go wonky.

      2. Likely going to let my wallet recover for a bit (it's smokin' hot about to burst into flames from overuse), especially since I still need to buy accessories and water toys now (bumpers, extra life vests, ropes, tube, tow rope, water skis, etc) but will put that on the future "to do" list.

      3. Yep -- that's the only flaw I could find in the interior. It's already been stitched shut with some heavy-duty thread, so while it has started I'm hoping it won't go any further. Then again, for a 13-year-old boat, it's pretty good that's the only real flaw I could find.
      Go buy some clear vinyl glue (or even Crazy Glue) to put over that seam and reinforce it.


      4. The owner of the shop said he had his guys look at the bellows and they're fine. Since I don't have a tow vehicle (and we're about five years out from needing a new car), I'm going to have him put it in and out each year right around the time I come up (we live 500 miles away and will keep it here), so I'll have him give the boat a full inspection each year before putting it in the water.
      You will need the owners manual then and track maintenance to the hours the boat accrues. Same with a car, just keep an eye on major maintenance milestones. More on the owners manual in a sec...


      5. I'll take a look at those videos and will do it this summer when I come back up. Since it's on the engine it's no problem doing it on the water, yes? (probably an obvious answer, but you never know when you're brand new to something and don't even know the right questions to ask).
      The last impeller I changed was on my 1986 Volvo Penta AQ260, which was a pre-Vortec 5.7L GM block. I can't imagine it's changed much in the ensuing years - I would watch the videos, keep the required tools on hand, and yes, you can change while in the water.


      6. Good idea -- I know the oil has already been changed, I'll ask about the other.

      A couple of questions:

      The owner's manual didn't come with the boat. I looked on the Four Winns site and while they have some manuals available for download, they don't have this year and model. I found some places online that had it, but they were sufficiently sketchy that I don't want to touch them (one required the download of a sketchy browser extension). Know of any good sources before I reach out to the company itself?

      Also, I'm likely going to want to install a ski pylon (not interested in a wake tower). Any ideas/suggestions?

      Just call Four Winns directly. Fastest, easiest way to get the owners manual.

      Regarding the ski pylon, unless you have a requirement for an elevated tow point, you already have a ski harness hook on the back of the boat. Look at your pics. It's dead-center on the transom above the swim platform.

      Frankly, the ski towers are a fad IMO. They add height and weight, are only used infrequently, and increase windage on windy days. Unless you KNOW you need it, I would save your money on both the ski tower AND the pylon.
      Matt
      2018 Toyota Highlander SE AWD, Midnight Black Metallic/Black
      2018 Four Winns H210 / 5.3L Volvo Penta V8 300 / DPS-A Duoprop drive

    13. #112
      Geriatric Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Maximum_Download View Post
      Frankly, the ski towers are a fad IMO. They add height and weight, are only used infrequently, and increase windage on windy days. Unless you KNOW you need it, I would save your money on both the ski tower AND the pylon.
      a fad in the cruiser world perhaps?

      not sure how into skiing youll end up getting, but itll probably jerk the boat around quite a bit for someone to cut back and forth with the rope attached that far back.

      do they weight rate those tow points on cruisers? i know the mastercraft/tow boat world they almost always say not to pull anything other than another boat at idle/low speed from that point. towing inflatables and skis/boards is from the pylon or the tower

    14. #113
      Member PlatinumGLS's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ValveCoverGasket View Post
      do they weight rate those tow points on cruisers? i know the mastercraft/tow boat world they almost always say not to pull anything other than another boat at idle/low speed from that point. towing inflatables and skis/boards is from the pylon or the tower
      With the add-on towers that would go on a boat like that FW, I would never pull an inflatable towable from it - waaaaayyy too much stress on the tower. Those are for skiing and wakeboards.
      Quote Originally Posted by admirallaserbeam
      Rotary engines suck, dont get the miata
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    15. #114
      Member Maximum_Download's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PlatinumGLS View Post
      With the add-on towers that would go on a boat like that FW, I would never pull an inflatable towable from it - waaaaayyy too much stress on the tower. Those are for skiing and wakeboards.
      Which means there are even more of a specialized use, and therefore worthless to me.

      Around here, they are a drawback because we have lakes with lower bridges. They also add about 2 feet to the on-trailer stored height, which is an issue for people like me who put my boat in my garage.

      I just don't see the value.
      Matt
      2018 Toyota Highlander SE AWD, Midnight Black Metallic/Black
      2018 Four Winns H210 / 5.3L Volvo Penta V8 300 / DPS-A Duoprop drive

    16. #115
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      Quote Originally Posted by Maximum_Download View Post
      Unless you are boating in a very rocky area, the risk is minimal. SS doesn't damage as badly as aluminum does, and there is a rubberized insert on all prop hubs that allow the prop to slip. Finally, you should have insurance that is a Yacht Policy that covers Agreed Hull Value (not depreciated value), with on water towing AND lower unit protection if you hit something.

      I wouldn't worry about this, frankly.
      We are in a rocky area, but unless the water goes stupid low (like it did last year; right now it's stupid high) I know where most of the snags are around here.

      Your insurance pointers are timely -- I'm sitting in Burlington Airport (eating an amazing crepe from a local restaurant that has a presence in the terminal -- I love this town) with my flight delayed 90 minutes so far, so I'm working on insuring it this minute.

      The definition of agreed hull value is self-referential: "...pays to replace or repair your boat up to its agreed hull value, determined when you start your policy. Covers your boat, engines, and boating equipment."

      What should the agreed hull value be of a used boat -- the purchase price? Replacement value of a new version of the boat?

    17. #116
      Member barry2952's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by dts View Post
      We are in a rocky area, but unless the water goes stupid low (like it did last year; right now it's stupid high) I know where most of the snags are around here.

      Your insurance pointers are timely -- I'm sitting in Burlington Airport (eating an amazing crepe from a local restaurant that has a presence in the terminal -- I love this town) with my flight delayed 90 minutes so far, so I'm working on insuring it this minute.

      The definition of agreed hull value is self-referential: "...pays to replace or repair your boat up to its agreed hull value, determined when you start your policy. Covers your boat, engines, and boating equipment."

      What should the agreed hull value be of a used boat -- the purchase price? Replacement value of a new version of the boat?
      Agreed-value insurance is legalized gambling. You get to pretty much place your bet, within reason. On classic cars, about $6 per thousand.

    18. #117
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      Quote Originally Posted by dts View Post
      The definition of agreed hull value is self-referential: "...pays to replace or repair your boat up to its agreed hull value, determined when you start your policy. Covers your boat, engines, and boating equipment."

      What should the agreed hull value be of a used boat -- the purchase price? Replacement value of a new version of the boat?
      Boat premiums are really cheap.

      You definitely want Agreed Value vs. Actual Cash Value.

      I have mine insured for about the high end of replacement cost for boat/trailer/equipment.

    19. #118
      Congrats on the boat!

      Quote Originally Posted by dts View Post
      Your insurance pointers are timely -- I'm sitting in Burlington Airport (eating an amazing crepe from a local restaurant that has a presence in the terminal -- I love this town) with my flight delayed 90 minutes so far, so I'm working on insuring it this minute.
      I've long wondered if the Skinny Pancake was good or not - one just opened down the road from Queeche State Park, where we often take the Airstream. Thanks for mentioning that.

      Tom

    20. #119
      Member Maximum_Download's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by PoorHouse View Post
      Boat premiums are really cheap.

      You definitely want Agreed Value vs. Actual Cash Value.

      I have mine insured for about the high end of replacement cost for boat/trailer/equipment.
      ^ This.

      First off, boat insurance IS cheap, because they are only used 6 months out of the year. Easily half if not more of what my usual full coverage is on my cars.

      In plain English, Agreed Hull Value is whatever you say you want it insured for. ACV is where they look up your boat, and calcuate a depreciation curve.

      Let's use my old 1986 Bayliner 2450 Ciera as an example. I bought the boat for about $5,000. ACV is about $5,000 and continues to go down. I dumped about $4,000 in repairs and upgrades (new canvas, mechanical work, dual battery system, etc.).

      If I am going down the river and nail a log and sink the boat, ACV means I get $5,000 - depreciation. I lose $4,000 instantly, and I am replacing the boat with an 18 foot somethingorother from 1970.

      I insured the boat at Agreed Hull Value at $10,000. If the boat sinks, I get a check for $10,000, which is more than enough to replace it with a like quality replacement.

      In my Four Winns case, I did AHV at the MSRP. MSRP on my boat was about $75,000. Obviously I didn't PAY that, and the boat will continue to depreciate every year, but if the boat sinks tomorrow and it's totalled, I get a check for $75,000 minus my payoff.

      Additionally, there are two additional coverages you ABSOLUTELY want: UNderwater obstruction coverage, and on-water towing. Underwater obstruction coverage saves your @$$ when you hit a rock and take out the lower unit. Normal coverage doesn't include that, but Yacht policies do. And finally, the on water towing part is self explanatory, but it is needed because most service providers charge you $250 just to tie a line to your boat and put their boat in FWD. Towing can easily go over $1,000 per incident...so get it, and save yourself a major financial hit in the event of a breakdown.

      One more tip: Once you get all your safety gear (handheld VHF radio, life vests for all on board, throwable flotation, flares, TWO anchors with chain and rhode (main anchor must be 100ft minimum, more if LC is a deep lake), fenders and docklines - go longer than the 15 foot cheapies...you will be glad you did), call your local US Coast Guard Power Squadron and schedule a safety inspection. It's free, and you get a sticker to put on your windshield. Once you do, unless you're doing something REALLY stupid, it's basically a "don't bother me for the rest of the season" sticker.
      Matt
      2018 Toyota Highlander SE AWD, Midnight Black Metallic/Black
      2018 Four Winns H210 / 5.3L Volvo Penta V8 300 / DPS-A Duoprop drive

    21. #120
      Member FullyLoadedCarat's Avatar
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      Been a while friends!


      I've been busy, or lazy, or both. Whichever. I have "completed" the boat. At least as much as I am going to anyway.

      Its got new things like brand new lexan windshields! Brand new paint! Brand new navigation lights!



      Thats all.

      But it does catch fish, so theres that!


      Other than that, I blew an ignition module which led me down the rabbit hole of trying to set the ignition up on this engine, which then led to less power when I set it up wrong....

      To today when I set it up right and gained a fair amount of mid range transition power/lost the mid range bog it always kind of had which is pretty neat.

      Sadly(or not depending on how you feel about letting projects go) this will be leaving our fleet in the spring. Its just too small for us two and two now full grown(and larger than average) german shepherds.

      BUT!!! It will stay in the family, and I will likely still have ti fix it as it is going to the inlaws down the street!

      Stay tuned for more summer fun pics and more adventures in boat ownership!
      When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?

    22. #121
      Senior Member Silly_me's Avatar
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      I've never caught a Rainbow from a boat, such a barbarian
      Germans are white people. Look up #84 on the list of things white people like: Gear. Lots of Gear. We even have gear farkles over here. -Atomicalex

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    23. #122
      Member Maximum_Download's Avatar
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      That turned out wonderful! It looks great - you can still tell she's vintage but it's obviously done very well. Love the black with the wood on the front.

      Nice job!
      Matt
      2018 Toyota Highlander SE AWD, Midnight Black Metallic/Black
      2018 Four Winns H210 / 5.3L Volvo Penta V8 300 / DPS-A Duoprop drive

    24. #123
      Member The_Real_Stack's Avatar
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      That looks great. You see so many boats like this looking ratty that this one really stands out.

      A metal hull like this has to be one of the cheapest ways to (motor)boat, no?
      Quote Originally Posted by Volkl View Post
      My wife wanted a SUV with a manual transmission. I suggested a Wrangler, she said no way, too masculine

    25. #124
      Member FullyLoadedCarat's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by The_Real_Stack View Post


      That looks great. You see so many boats like this looking ratty that this one really stands out.

      A metal hull like this has to be one of the cheapest ways to (motor)boat, no?
      Not around these parts. A guy can pick up a cheap fiberglass, do a tune up and be on the water for under 2-3g's canadian. Hell I picked up a 16ft fiberglass project boat with a good hull last year for 200 bucks, trailer included. Needed a couple seats and some interior work, but could have been out and about for under a grand.

      Similar boats to this sell from 3-6000 depending on vintage, engine size and so forth due to the river being a primary water source for people to play/fish on. That sand bar in the picture is one of only a couple on the river from the U.S. Canada border to the next dam 20kms away. So being able to fish in the shallows, pull up on gravel bars, and ding boulders on shore makes even little tinners much more valuable.
      When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?

    26. #125
      Member The_Real_Stack's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by FullyLoadedCarat View Post
      Not around these parts. A guy can pick up a cheap fiberglass, do a tune up and be on the water for under 2-3g's canadian. Hell I picked up a 16ft fiberglass project boat with a good hull last year for 200 bucks, trailer included. Needed a couple seats and some interior work, but could have been out and about for under a grand.
      I was thinking more of a total cost of ownership perspective given that A) metal hulls are near-zero maintenance (especially if left unpainted) and B) near-zero depreciation. My FIL has a little metal rowboat/dinghy that he got for free/cheap as part of some campground closing, 99% of the time it lives upside down in the woods, every once in a while we drag it out, kill all the spiders, throw an old 15hp outboard on it and screw around. It's basically your boat without the dashboard and windshield and enclosed bow.

      But point taken.
      Quote Originally Posted by Volkl View Post
      My wife wanted a SUV with a manual transmission. I suggested a Wrangler, she said no way, too masculine

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