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2015 2.0t Sport Engine Mods II

31K views 188 replies 22 participants last post by  WILLCCU 
#1 ·
Just made a few more mods to the 2.0 6-speed Sport. Previous Mods:
1) HPA Tune
2) HPA Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
3) HPA Downpipe & Midpipe w/ Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
4) HPA Hybrid K04 Turbo
5) Golf R Inter Cooler
6) CTS Turbo Hot/Cold pipes
7) Carbonio Stage II CAI
8) R8 Coils
9) Billy Boat 3” Exhaust109) HPA Red Dog Bone Mount
10) TTRS Hybrid Clutch
11) Koni Adjustable Struts / Shocks
12) Snow W/M Injection
13) Nitto 245/45/17 Drag Radials
With these mods in decent Springtime air (I live in Phoenix, Arizona), best 1/4 ET / MPH was 14.08 @ 103.89 MPH. Traction limited as I was running 26-28 PSI in the front tires so they still spin. Much less than my Michellin Pilot Super Sports I run on the street. This is my DD and I don’t want to bust a CV Joint or Axle. To calm down wheel-hop, I adjust the front Koni’s to their stiffest setting.

I have since added the following:
1) HPA supplied Wagner Competition full-sized Inter Cooler
2) HPA supplied Ferrea +1mm Intake and Exhaust Valves, stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers
3) Bowl or pocket porting to both sides of the head with new bronze Valve Guides
4) New HPA Hybrid R430 Turbocharger
5) New Timing Chain set
6) FluidDampner Balancer
7) New HPA tune
8) South Bend Stage III Endurance Clutch with light-weight SM Flywheel with Kevlar Disk
9) ECS supplied short throw forward & back shifter components, billet bleeder block, braided steel hydraulic throwout bearing line.
10) Strange to some, I pulled off the Carbonio CAI and re-installed the OEM air-box assembly using a K&N flat panel filter. Reason in doing so is on cold start-up, the idle would surge up and down and set the CEL for P050A. To get around this, I would hold the throttle to around 1500 RPM until the idle stabilized. So far the OEM unit doesn’t seem to have the problem. Not sure if that’s a tuning problem or improper air flow over the MAF. Will deal with this later.

Yesterday, I went to Goodspeed in Scottsdale, AZ. At the time of my dyno runs to catalog the ECU, it was 107.4* ambient air temperature. By the time I drove home afterwards, it was 113* to 114*. Us locals don’t pay to much attention to the weather on a clear summer day. It’s either hot, hotter, or a little cooler today. But it does matter when you dyno a vehicle!

Since this is a new combo with HPA and I’m the first outside their shop to use this new Turbo, we needed a safe tune and to further the safety, I’ve been driving around with 100 octane VP Fuel for the 1200 miles required to break in my new clutch before going WOT, more so if on a dyno. Snow Injection was turned off for data-logging. I don’t want a tune with W/M injection.

I will get the new tune from HPA soon. I will run that tune again and data log with the 100 octane fuel. Once the 100 octane tuning is final, I will run the 91 octane street fuel we have here in Arizona (we don’t even get 93 octane here and our 91 octane is amongst the worst in the country due to EPA requirements). Ultimately, I will have a 91 octane and 100 octane tune for street or strip.

No point now in showing dyno numbers as they are purposefully soft; tune is not fully worked out and it’s hotter than hell outside. But I’ll say it’s considerably better than previous. I will report once we finalize the tune. Which should be next week if all goes well. Did make two runs at the end with the Snow Injection on. It’s worth about 20 WHP across the entire RPM range when activated. I have start at 10 PSI and full at 18 PSI.

Overall so far, the car was fun before but oh my...there’s no comparison! Before it would peak boost but not hold it more than a second or so. Now it holds it. I have seen 25# boost with the new parts but that’s in the morning when it’s around 88* ambient. This new turbo pushes more boost pressure so it needs less peak pressures than the K04. While on the dyno it peaked at around 22#. Plus, and I maybe wrong, I believe less restrictions in the system (ported head and larger valves) will reduce boost while still making more power.
Interestingly, the Billy Boat exhaust that I love, is MUCH louder now. So much so, that after the final tuning is done, if it is still loud, I will go back to BB and get a resonator or something installed. It’s even loud in the cabin in 6th gear on the freeway. But it does sound cool!

Since I like to go to the drag strip, a weak link is the DM Flywheel. That’s one reason I changed to a SM Flywheel. The other was to gain more traction. By going to a lighter Clutch / Flywheel, you lessen the hit on launch. So far that has proven right as I can barely spin the street tires when before I could fry them. So hopefully not only will more HP help the car go down the track, so will traction improvements.

All I know so far is there’s a black late model Charger R/T 5.7 still shaking his head over what happened!

Will follow up within a week.
 
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#14 ·
I rather run the irdium BKR7E-IX and replace them more often than the stock double platinums. The smaller diameter tip helps with ignitability and the tapered ground electrode reduces quenching of the flame kernel.
 
#15 ·
no experience with Okada coils?
thanks
 
#16 ·
I have sent an inquiry to Okada Projects. I have CBFA engine code and from what I know, that and CCTA are typical TSI gen 2 in North America.
 
#18 ·
This is what Okada shows they have. CDA is the engine code.

Volkswagen CC 2012 + L4 Turbo 1.8L CDA PD4002106R $785.00
 
#19 ·
Their listing is based on their available engines in the Japanese market. CDA(A) is a 1.8L, Gen2 EA888 (with VTEC). But the coil you want is SD334061R, from the CAW(A/B) which is related to the CCTA/CBFA, but differs in emissions requirements. But they all take the same coil.
https://www.okadaprojects.com/lineup_car.php?select_maker=VOLKSWAGEN

Talk to USP motorsports. They sell them.

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/IP-A121406-2009.html

The larger turbo MK6 people tend to use drop their gap down to .6mm (0.028") and use NGK PFR7B (4853), instead of the stock plugs at .8mm gap (0.032")
 
#20 ·
Appreciate your help! I run NGK plugs at -1 step colder with .028” gap. I don’t have the p/n in front of me but that’s what I run.

I received this reply from Japan today:
"It seems that your engine code is for North America and unreleased in Japan.
According the part number of OEM ignition coil, Plasma Direct #PD4002106R
fits the CBFA engine.
However, we have not tried the product with CBFA or CCTA actually and the
its effectiveness has not measured yet.
The same applies to your modified engine.”

I’ll call USP Motorsport today. I’ll dyno before / after if I get them.
 
#21 ·
Sure is a piss-poor product review!
 
#22 ·
I’m not spending $700+ on coils that have a sketchy reputation.

But I did just install Stage II ECS Tuning Motor & transmission mounts. That lasted all of 1 mile! About rattled my teeth out in all gears and RPM range. Took the ECS engine mount off and put a new OEM motor mount on and that took care of 75% of the problem but I still do not like it. Replacing the trans mount tomorrow.

I will say with the OEM engine (passenger side) replaced and the ECS unit on the transmission (under the battery box), it does seem to control wheel hop better and definitely easier to upshift and downshift to 2nd gear better. Maybe just having new mounts (84,000 on the originals) will help the 2nd gear shifting? I would bet most would live with this arrangement but I use this car with real estate customers on occasion and it’s a little embarrassing to explain why the car rattles and sounds like it does.

And I’m getting tired of the “is that a diesel?” due to no insulated engine cover. So time to cover up the red coils and oil separator / Return PCV system.

Summer time here in Arizona. Turbo car does not like 100*+ heat!
 
#24 ·
Now have OEM mounts all around and it shifts up / down to 2nd gear just fine, Cabin is quite. Chalk this one up to experience!

Had a P0341 code and I have noticed some dogginess in the lower RPM’s. Changed out the CPS and wow; what a difference! I have a P3 gauge and I’m seeing ignition spark advance numbers I’ve never seen. Much smoother, better acceleration, better all around. Simplest part on the entire car to change.

Can’t wait for late Fall 1/2 mile drags again! Should have my 100 octane tune from HPA.
 
#27 ·
Had a P0341 code and I have noticed some dogginess in the lower RPM’s. Changed out the CPS and wow; what a difference! I have a P3 gauge and I’m seeing ignition spark advance numbers I’ve never seen. Much smoother, better acceleration, better all around. Simplest part on the entire car to change.
OK...So I replaced the CPS and all I have to say is WOW! Finally have the correct ignition timing which I have questioned my tuner on more than once. Watching my P3 gauge, it just always seemed like such a low reading (typically in single digits). Now, normal cursing is 15*+/-, goes as high as 37*. Gas mileage status is up tremendously, smoother, much, much better acceleration. Basically, finally feels like the 400+ HP the parts I have are supposed to provide. However....

It comes and goes. When the power / drivability “goes away” you can watch the ignition timing go back to just above, and even below 0. You can watch, at the same time, the MPG drop from maybe low-mid 30’s to mid 20’s. And of course it’s a dog. Too much noise from the top timing chain cover (when we put the ported head on and all the other stuff, replaced timing chain and guides). I have also had the “warning” engine oil pressure dash light come on a few times with the oil pan full. I immediately shut the engine off and the warning goes away with no issues. My theory is the Camshaft Bracket (or Camshaft Bridge) is defective (there is a round, cupped screen that contains a ball valve below the screen; sometimes the screen gets wiped out), causing the hydraulically activated camshaft positioning to not act properly. That, or and / or, the Intake camshaft Phase adjuster. Appears both items can cause the same problem. These are all hydraulic related issue's. So I am ordering a new pair of cams, phase adjuster, Camshaft bridge & new followers. Will install upon arrival and I’m not going to drive the car until then.

I did look for any performance cams and can not find that something like this exists. Anybody? Nothing radical, just a warmed over cam(s).

Thanks.
 
#25 ·
Cts turbo engine mounts are great, I ordered a set on sale and cause I'm cheap and they definitely are a great mod. I'm stage 2 and no bad vibrations. They vibrate more than normal because they're not balanced. My mechanic said he can lift the engine and let it hand freely and then tighten the mounts so there is no tension on the rubber and you won't be able to feel a thing. He claims he had solid mounts with less vibes than my car. I'll update you on what it does

Sent from my ASUS_X00TDB using Tapatalk
 
#26 ·
That’s interesting...

Thanks.
 
#28 · (Edited)
The cam bridge and and the valve are both known to fail. As you described, that screen moves, disappears, will then cause a range of issues. I'd say its unlikely that the camshafts need to be replaced, but if you feel the need, it won't hurt of course. I've never searched too hard for a set of hot cams. I would call IE and see if they can set something up. Crower definitely doesn't make any -- I've asked 'em twice!

Have you dropped the oil pan to see what sort of treasure has been collected?
 
#29 ·
Don’t see the need to drop the pan. Of course if the bridge or other parts show carnage, then I may consider it. Do not suspect any bearing failures at this point in time.
I have a friend that owns Redline Racing Cams. He builds the cams for my 1970 AMC Drag car. Spoke to him today, he thinks he may have a pair of cams for me, he’ll check Monday morning.
 
#32 ·
The cams were for a 1.8, not 2.0. He has a pair for N/A and another pair for turbo. $650 a pair. The guy is really good at what he does!

I don’t want to wait for a custom pair of cams so I just bought straight from VW. All parts are to be in 05/22/2020 and install will be the following day. Can’t wait!
 
#34 ·
I just posted this under the Technical Section for gen I and gen II engine section:
I recently added IE +1 mm intake and exhaust valves along with Integrated Engineering guides, stiffer springs plus performance valve job and pocket porting (inside the bowls). See signature for upgrade list. Ran great but intermittent problem with retarded ignition timing lead to new OEM Cam Position Sensor. That cured the problem...sort of. Occasional P0341 still reared it’s ugly head and ignition timing would still retard excessively. I looked into this and found the issue could be a few items; the cam bridge and internal check valve and / or the intake cam phaser.
So I bought (all VW OEM) a new bridge and intake cam with phaser attached. While I was putting in a new intake cam, I figured might as well put in a new exhaust cam.
Mechanic called and told me when he pulled the bridge the screen for the check vale popped out and shout across the shop floor. That was good news to me as I figured that was the issue (and not a rare one at that), but I was still onboard to change out the other parts. All good.
Mechanic called today and bad news, the front journal for the exhaust cam (cam, head, valve cover) was severely wiped out. All bad.
Now I need a new head. I can probably reuse my old parts and port the new head. But I may consider a new head with all work done including port work; one stop shopping. I’ve searched the net and all I find is IE has a “Sport” head which is basically a upgraded head with +1mm valves, new guides, springs, but no port work. Anybody offer something with port work that is proven? I’ll be making calls Monday morning.
Thanks

Also, tomorrow I am sending both cams to my cam guy (Spiro Jennings at Redline Racing Cams in San Jose California). He will look at them and see if he can alter the cam timing for more performance. That would be a “regrind” in the industry parlance. He does this to Ferrari and Lamborghini and the results are amazing. These have the pressed on lobes so I don’t have high hopes.

My theory on the damages is the bridge check valve retainer / screen was not positioned correctly due to wear, age, whatever which caused oil interruption to the cam.
 
#35 ·
I just posted this under the Technical Section for gen I and gen II engine section:
Will,

Saw your post on my thread. I've not been on here in a little while. So, I dropped my oil pan and found a bit of aluminum shards and granules in the pickup tube. I had preemptively replaced my timing chain, tensioner and cam bridge early last year and thinking back, it wasn't much longer after that when the low oil pressure started. I have been scouring the internet for "2.0 tsi low oil pressure" issues and the best I have come up with is, for some reason, after a timing chain/tensioner replacement, the balancing shafts seem to go bad (Something during the replacement, wasn't done exactly correct :confused: ). I have noted that after driving on the freeway for any amount of time, the car is fine, when I get off the freeway and drop my speed down, the "Low oil pressure" light goes off, if I'm able to step on it again and get above 40 mph, the light immediately goes off/away. It's only when the engine has warmed up and been running for a little bit. I have replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor below the oil filter, replaced the Oil Level Sensor in the pan (someone said it could be dual pressure/level) Nothing has resolved the issue. So, I'm getting all the parts to have my balancing shafts replaced.
 
#36 ·
Here is Cam, Head, Valve Cover:







Dropping lower pan tomorrow.

Ordered new head. Will drop the nearly new Ferrea +1mm valves in it with performance valve job. Spoke to HPA and they did not recommend porting the head as it is not a bottleneck until well past 500 HP. I somewhat suspect that the port work I had may have been a problem, could be loss in velocity. HPA had a customer with the exact build as I, but no porting and he was 375’ish WHP. I had one dyno pull and saw something like that but all others (even after that one) were in the low 300’s. Don’t know why the dyno had a different number. Maybe tied to ignition timing being right? Who knows.

I have the new Intake cam, waiting on the new exhaust cam. Will send both to Redline Racing Cams once exhaust cam arrives. He can look over the cams as I wait on the head to get prepped.
 
#38 ·
No issues after pulling oil pan.
 
#40 ·
Soon after purchasing the CC I went looking for a tuner. All made promises but none could produce as this was a 6-speed and nobody could make it work (not even APR). Nobody. I came across HPA and they said they could do it. It took longer than expected but they got it done. That led down the path of purchasing their products. I really don’t know if one is better than the other (and I’m sure there are valid arguments on both sides of the fence), but HPA has been a blessing to work with.
Geez...HPA has that new Arteon engine easily making 500+ HP! I feel so “yesterday”!
 
#41 ·
Dropped brand new head and valve cover off with coater. Will coat cam journals with anti-friction coating and external surfaces will be a titanium color.
Once that is done, both the new head and old head go to my machinist so he can pull the valves and springs from the old head and swap to the new heads.
 
#43 ·
By the way, after taking a look at the damaged head and valve cover, I see no reason why you could not have the damaged journal in the head and valve cover welded up then line bored / honed as it is a through hole (the cam journals). Piece of cake in my book. I contemplated this but the reality is I ‘suspect” the port work I had done to the bowls may have adversely affected the velocity so I’m just moving forward with replacement of the head but retaining the +1mm valves and stiffer springs.
 
#45 ·
Absolutely not! In fact, HPA has taken APR tuned cars and HPA made them better. Don’t want a fan fight. Each has their merits I’m sure.
 
#47 ·
After I believe 10 days or so, powder coater called and just can’t get my head / cams / valve cover done on time as he just expanded his building and equipment.
So stock aluminum it remains. Dropped off both heads at the machinist today. I was somewhat shocked at the amount of carbon build-up on the backside of the Ferrara valves as they only have about 10,000 miles on them. I told the machinist the car never used oil, or none to speak of, on my 5,000 mile interval oil changes until I did this work. Now it’s a quart every 800-1,000 miles. I asked him to triple check the stem to guide clearances on the old head and new head. It’s either the guides (which were IE all new guides and seals) or the extra boost. I was previously using 5-40 Motul then went to 5-40 Amsoil. Any thoughts on this? I have IE recirculating PCV w/ catch can. I’d almost like to hear the stem to guide clearance on the old head was an issue.
I may even consider going from a single port injection on the Snow Stage II system to tapping the HPA intake manifold for 4-port injection. Not for any power increase, but to maybe keep the valves cleaner. Will look into that tomorrow.
 
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