Just made a few more mods to the 2.0 6-speed Sport. Previous Mods:
1) HPA Tune
2) HPA Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
3) HPA Downpipe & Midpipe w/ Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
4) HPA Hybrid K04 Turbo
5) Golf R Inter Cooler
6) CTS Turbo Hot/Cold pipes
7) Carbonio Stage II CAI
8) R8 Coils
9) Billy Boat 3” Exhaust109) HPA Red Dog Bone Mount
10) TTRS Hybrid Clutch
11) Koni Adjustable Struts / Shocks
12) Snow W/M Injection
13) Nitto 245/45/17 Drag Radials
With these mods in decent Springtime air (I live in Phoenix, Arizona), best 1/4 ET / MPH was 14.08 @ 103.89 MPH. Traction limited as I was running 26-28 PSI in the front tires so they still spin. Much less than my Michellin Pilot Super Sports I run on the street. This is my DD and I don’t want to bust a CV Joint or Axle. To calm down wheel-hop, I adjust the front Koni’s to their stiffest setting.
I have since added the following:
1) HPA supplied Wagner Competition full-sized Inter Cooler
2) HPA supplied Ferrea +1mm Intake and Exhaust Valves, stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers
3) Bowl or pocket porting to both sides of the head with new bronze Valve Guides
4) New HPA Hybrid R430 Turbocharger
5) New Timing Chain set
6) FluidDampner Balancer
7) New HPA tune
8) South Bend Stage III Endurance Clutch with light-weight SM Flywheel with Kevlar Disk
9) ECS supplied short throw forward & back shifter components, billet bleeder block, braided steel hydraulic throwout bearing line.
10) Strange to some, I pulled off the Carbonio CAI and re-installed the OEM air-box assembly using a K&N flat panel filter. Reason in doing so is on cold start-up, the idle would surge up and down and set the CEL for P050A. To get around this, I would hold the throttle to around 1500 RPM until the idle stabilized. So far the OEM unit doesn’t seem to have the problem. Not sure if that’s a tuning problem or improper air flow over the MAF. Will deal with this later.
Yesterday, I went to Goodspeed in Scottsdale, AZ. At the time of my dyno runs to catalog the ECU, it was 107.4* ambient air temperature. By the time I drove home afterwards, it was 113* to 114*. Us locals don’t pay to much attention to the weather on a clear summer day. It’s either hot, hotter, or a little cooler today. But it does matter when you dyno a vehicle!
Since this is a new combo with HPA and I’m the first outside their shop to use this new Turbo, we needed a safe tune and to further the safety, I’ve been driving around with 100 octane VP Fuel for the 1200 miles required to break in my new clutch before going WOT, more so if on a dyno. Snow Injection was turned off for data-logging. I don’t want a tune with W/M injection.
I will get the new tune from HPA soon. I will run that tune again and data log with the 100 octane fuel. Once the 100 octane tuning is final, I will run the 91 octane street fuel we have here in Arizona (we don’t even get 93 octane here and our 91 octane is amongst the worst in the country due to EPA requirements). Ultimately, I will have a 91 octane and 100 octane tune for street or strip.
No point now in showing dyno numbers as they are purposefully soft; tune is not fully worked out and it’s hotter than hell outside. But I’ll say it’s considerably better than previous. I will report once we finalize the tune. Which should be next week if all goes well. Did make two runs at the end with the Snow Injection on. It’s worth about 20 WHP across the entire RPM range when activated. I have start at 10 PSI and full at 18 PSI.
Overall so far, the car was fun before but oh my...there’s no comparison! Before it would peak boost but not hold it more than a second or so. Now it holds it. I have seen 25# boost with the new parts but that’s in the morning when it’s around 88* ambient. This new turbo pushes more boost pressure so it needs less peak pressures than the K04. While on the dyno it peaked at around 22#. Plus, and I maybe wrong, I believe less restrictions in the system (ported head and larger valves) will reduce boost while still making more power.
Interestingly, the Billy Boat exhaust that I love, is MUCH louder now. So much so, that after the final tuning is done, if it is still loud, I will go back to BB and get a resonator or something installed. It’s even loud in the cabin in 6th gear on the freeway. But it does sound cool!
Since I like to go to the drag strip, a weak link is the DM Flywheel. That’s one reason I changed to a SM Flywheel. The other was to gain more traction. By going to a lighter Clutch / Flywheel, you lessen the hit on launch. So far that has proven right as I can barely spin the street tires when before I could fry them. So hopefully not only will more HP help the car go down the track, so will traction improvements.
All I know so far is there’s a black late model Charger R/T 5.7 still shaking his head over what happened!
Will follow up within a week.
1) HPA Tune
2) HPA Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
3) HPA Downpipe & Midpipe w/ Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
4) HPA Hybrid K04 Turbo
5) Golf R Inter Cooler
6) CTS Turbo Hot/Cold pipes
7) Carbonio Stage II CAI
8) R8 Coils
9) Billy Boat 3” Exhaust109) HPA Red Dog Bone Mount
10) TTRS Hybrid Clutch
11) Koni Adjustable Struts / Shocks
12) Snow W/M Injection
13) Nitto 245/45/17 Drag Radials
With these mods in decent Springtime air (I live in Phoenix, Arizona), best 1/4 ET / MPH was 14.08 @ 103.89 MPH. Traction limited as I was running 26-28 PSI in the front tires so they still spin. Much less than my Michellin Pilot Super Sports I run on the street. This is my DD and I don’t want to bust a CV Joint or Axle. To calm down wheel-hop, I adjust the front Koni’s to their stiffest setting.
I have since added the following:
1) HPA supplied Wagner Competition full-sized Inter Cooler
2) HPA supplied Ferrea +1mm Intake and Exhaust Valves, stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers
3) Bowl or pocket porting to both sides of the head with new bronze Valve Guides
4) New HPA Hybrid R430 Turbocharger
5) New Timing Chain set
6) FluidDampner Balancer
7) New HPA tune
8) South Bend Stage III Endurance Clutch with light-weight SM Flywheel with Kevlar Disk
9) ECS supplied short throw forward & back shifter components, billet bleeder block, braided steel hydraulic throwout bearing line.
10) Strange to some, I pulled off the Carbonio CAI and re-installed the OEM air-box assembly using a K&N flat panel filter. Reason in doing so is on cold start-up, the idle would surge up and down and set the CEL for P050A. To get around this, I would hold the throttle to around 1500 RPM until the idle stabilized. So far the OEM unit doesn’t seem to have the problem. Not sure if that’s a tuning problem or improper air flow over the MAF. Will deal with this later.
Yesterday, I went to Goodspeed in Scottsdale, AZ. At the time of my dyno runs to catalog the ECU, it was 107.4* ambient air temperature. By the time I drove home afterwards, it was 113* to 114*. Us locals don’t pay to much attention to the weather on a clear summer day. It’s either hot, hotter, or a little cooler today. But it does matter when you dyno a vehicle!
Since this is a new combo with HPA and I’m the first outside their shop to use this new Turbo, we needed a safe tune and to further the safety, I’ve been driving around with 100 octane VP Fuel for the 1200 miles required to break in my new clutch before going WOT, more so if on a dyno. Snow Injection was turned off for data-logging. I don’t want a tune with W/M injection.
I will get the new tune from HPA soon. I will run that tune again and data log with the 100 octane fuel. Once the 100 octane tuning is final, I will run the 91 octane street fuel we have here in Arizona (we don’t even get 93 octane here and our 91 octane is amongst the worst in the country due to EPA requirements). Ultimately, I will have a 91 octane and 100 octane tune for street or strip.
No point now in showing dyno numbers as they are purposefully soft; tune is not fully worked out and it’s hotter than hell outside. But I’ll say it’s considerably better than previous. I will report once we finalize the tune. Which should be next week if all goes well. Did make two runs at the end with the Snow Injection on. It’s worth about 20 WHP across the entire RPM range when activated. I have start at 10 PSI and full at 18 PSI.
Overall so far, the car was fun before but oh my...there’s no comparison! Before it would peak boost but not hold it more than a second or so. Now it holds it. I have seen 25# boost with the new parts but that’s in the morning when it’s around 88* ambient. This new turbo pushes more boost pressure so it needs less peak pressures than the K04. While on the dyno it peaked at around 22#. Plus, and I maybe wrong, I believe less restrictions in the system (ported head and larger valves) will reduce boost while still making more power.
Interestingly, the Billy Boat exhaust that I love, is MUCH louder now. So much so, that after the final tuning is done, if it is still loud, I will go back to BB and get a resonator or something installed. It’s even loud in the cabin in 6th gear on the freeway. But it does sound cool!
Since I like to go to the drag strip, a weak link is the DM Flywheel. That’s one reason I changed to a SM Flywheel. The other was to gain more traction. By going to a lighter Clutch / Flywheel, you lessen the hit on launch. So far that has proven right as I can barely spin the street tires when before I could fry them. So hopefully not only will more HP help the car go down the track, so will traction improvements.
All I know so far is there’s a black late model Charger R/T 5.7 still shaking his head over what happened!
Will follow up within a week.