Bringing Back Dull Single Stage Paint
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    1. #1
      Senior Member UncleJB's Avatar
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      Bringing Back Dull Single Stage Paint

      The paint on my '91 Jetta is chalky and I'd like to begin the process of bringing it back. I have used Rubbing/Polishing compound in the past with mixed results and wonder if anyone in here has any tips and or tricks.

      I don't currently own an orbital buffer and I am hesitant to use one because it seems that is what happened to our Cabby paint before we bought it. The angles and hard lines are down to primer because of taking too much of the paint off.

      Any advice is appreciated. I'd like to do it right the first time and would like it to last as long as possible. I've considered going to a professional but I wonder how many detailers have a good handle on the process since these cars are so old now.




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    3. #2
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      Oof, that's always a tough one. I don't have any solutions, but I am in for Mk2 content and would like to know for when I inevitably get one.

    4. #3
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      I would not use rubbing compound especially on thinning paint
      Unless you use an aggressive abrasive, random orbital machines are safe and a great tool for polishing with the correct polishes
      If you do not use a machine perhaps try a synthetic clay to clean paint and Griots Garage 3 in 1 liquid cleaning Wax. It has a mild cleaner, will add gloss and protection. If this does not bring up the paint then you probably need to do a multi step polish with a random orbital.

    5. #4
      I second the advice that a random orbital is very unlikely to do any serious harm if you keep it moving. I would also add that if you went to an experienced detailer they shouldn't have any issues working with your paint and will communicate any concerns they have after inspecting the vehicle.

    6. #5
      Senior Member DonL's Avatar
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      I thought you wanted to start a trend of matte finishes on older Dubs.
      "I get my kicks above the waistline, sunshine."

    7. #6
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      Wash, clay, then a random orbital with good pads and product will be totally safe.

    8. #7
      Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      The thread title made me think that we should start requesting that manufacturers bring this finish back to current automobiles.

      Chris
      | 20 Ram | 13 Altima | 00 Tahoe | 94 Integra GS-R | 74 SuperBeetle | 62 Ford Unibody |

    9. #8
      Senior Member UncleJB's Avatar
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      Didn't think of it that way.

      Thanks for the advice guys. Guess I need to shop for an orbital. Any recommendations on a good brand? I might practice on the Cabby first and then hit the Jetta.

    10. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by UncleJB View Post


      Didn't think of it that way.

      Thanks for the advice guys. Guess I need to shop for an orbital. Any recommendations on a good brand? I might practice on the Cabby first and then hit the Jetta.
      JB

      I own 2 Griots Garage Random Orbitals. I think my newest one is about 5 years old. I believe they are made by Porter Cable. I would recommend the long cord option. Griots has great customer service and if you call them their associates are very knowledgeable and can offer great assistance. They can probably give you better advice on which of their liquid car care products to use on your Vdub. The foam pads are washable and can be re-used a few times.
      For what is worth, my 1979 Cadillac I inherited 17 years ago from my neighbor and friend's parent's still has the original 41 year old GM lacquer paint on it, no bare spots. I have detailed this Caddie since new when I was in High School. Primarily Griots products used with the orbital for the past 17 years or so.
      Have Fun!


      https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...rPicks&from=fn
      Last edited by CadiGTi; 08-01-2020 at 04:13 PM.

    11. #10
      Member mhjett's Avatar
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      Is that an 8v Wolfsburg edition?

      I have the Flex 3401 DA orbital, made in Germany, and it's fantastic:



      https://www.amazon.com/Flex-XC3401VR...001DB0NVG?th=1

    12. #11
      Senior Member UncleJB's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CadiGTi View Post
      JB

      I own 2 Griots Garage Random Orbitals. I think my newest one is about 5 years old. I believe they are made by Porter Cable. I would recommend the long cord option. Griots has great customer service and if you call them their associates are very knowledgeable and can offer great assistance. They can probably give you better advice on which of their liquid car care products to use on your Vdub. The foam pads are washable and can be re-used a few times.
      For what is worth, my 1979 Cadillac I inherited 17 years ago from my neighbor and friend's parent's still has the original 41 year old GM lacquer paint on it, no bare spots. I have detailed this Caddie since new when I was in High School. Primarily Griots products used with the orbital for the past 17 years or so.
      Have Fun!


      https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...rPicks&from=fn
      Good tip thanks.

      Quote Originally Posted by mhjett View Post
      Is that an 8v Wolfsburg edition?

      I have the Flex 3401 DA orbital, made in Germany, and it's fantastic:

      https://www.amazon.com/Flex-XC3401VR...001DB0NVG?th=1
      It was - now it is a turbo diesel.

      Nice I will look into that one as well.

    13. #12
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      The missing paint on the edges of your previous car was not due to buffing, it was due to some moron NOT KNOWING WHAT THEY ARE DOING.

      Can you burn through your paint w a buffer? Sure. You could also forget to put your drain plug in and ruin your engine if you changed your own oil.

      Easy solution: Don't do that.

      I have a harbor freight special buffer, 6" pad. Got a wool pad for a heavy cutting, and some foamies for finishing. For compound, man... I cannot recomment 3m PerfecIt enough. I've tried using everything meguieres has, and I hate all of it. Also, while you're at HF, pick up the 3" pneumatic buffer gun, should be around $20 or so. Do the big panels w the big buffer, then use the 3" pnuematic one on smaller area, near headlights, etc.

      Don't press down. Let pad do the work. Don't stay in one spot too long, paint will get to hot. Buff up to edges, and make sure if you get near an edge, the rotation of the pad is going OFF the edge. If the pad is going TOWARDS the edge, it can catch can pull the buffer into the edge burning the paint.

      When I had my s6 painted, I wet sanded and buffed the whole car myself. Had never done it before. Was not hard at all. Seriously don't understand why people spend $1000's on paint correction, it was so freakin easy once you get the hang of it. >shrug<

    14. #13
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      Also, I use that 3" pneuamtic buffer pretty often. Makes quick work of headlights, taillights, plastic panels on poewrsports equipment, etc etc etc.

    15. #14
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      Before after 86 civic si


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    16. #15
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      Somehow those are bAckwards. You get the idea tho. Brings sexy back.


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    17. #16
      Senior Member UncleJB's Avatar
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      Wow nice!! Thanks for the info too.

      I just realized DeWalt has a 20V tool. I like the idea of not having to mess with a cord.

    18. #17
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      It’s super easy dude. I would only pay somebody to do it if I had more money than brains. Watch some vids and go for it.


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    19. #18
      Senior Member UncleJB's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
      It’s super easy dude. I would only pay somebody to do it if I had more money than brains. Watch some vids and go for it.

    20. #19
      Member pontiac's Avatar
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      https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...tml#post313790

      Give this a read. Mike Phillips definitely knows what hes talking about when it comes to restoring paint.

    21. #20
      Member Bicycle019's Avatar
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      Follow the steps laid out in this thread. It's shocking how well it works. It's an epic write up, but the principals are solid and you'll learn some good history about automotive refinishing.

      https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html

      On my '84 GLI with Mars Red single stage paint it was nothing less than transformational, and the paint wasn't in that bad condition. I followed the guidelines laid out in that thread and did three hand rubbed passes with Meguiars #7 Mirror Glaze to remove initial oxidization and "nourish" the paint, then it was safe to machine polished with Meguiars #9 Scratch/Swirl Remover 2.0 which plays well with the #7 and single stage paint (used a Griots G9 buffer with orange Lake Country pad), then hand waxed with Collinite 845 wax. Old school products, but for old single stage paint it looks amazing. Products were not very expensive, but it did take some time. The first coat of the Megs #7 sat on the car overnight, the two other coats for a few hours.

      Meguiars #7 - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirr.../dp/B0002UQAM0
      Meguiars #9 - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirr.../dp/B0002SQVX0
      Collinite 845 Wax - https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-845.../dp/B000JK2D06

      Party time, excellent.

    22. #21


      Damn, dude... That's stunning

    23. #22
      Member 2 doors's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by UncleJB View Post
      I just realized DeWalt has a 20V tool. I like the idea of not having to mess with a cord.
      This is the best answer for you. It just came out in the last year or so. I plan on picking one up just for the fun of it.

    24. #23
      Senior Member UncleJB's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by pontiac View Post
      https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...tml#post313790

      Give this a read. Mike Phillips definitely knows what hes talking about when it comes to restoring paint.
      Thanks

      Quote Originally Posted by Bicycle019 View Post
      Follow the steps laid out in this thread. It's shocking how well it works. It's an epic write up, but the principals are solid and you'll learn some good history about automotive refinishing.

      https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html

      On my '84 GLI with Mars Red single stage paint it was nothing less than transformational, and the paint wasn't in that bad condition. I followed the guidelines laid out in that thread and did three hand rubbed passes with Meguiars #7 Mirror Glaze to remove initial oxidization and "nourish" the paint, then it was safe to machine polished with Meguiars #9 Scratch/Swirl Remover 2.0 which plays well with the #7 and single stage paint (used a Griots G9 buffer with orange Lake Country pad), then hand waxed with Collinite 845 wax. Old school products, but for old single stage paint it looks amazing. Products were not very expensive, but it did take some time. The first coat of the Megs #7 sat on the car overnight, the two other coats for a few hours.

      Meguiars #7 - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirr.../dp/B0002UQAM0
      Meguiars #9 - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirr.../dp/B0002SQVX0
      Collinite 845 Wax - https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-845.../dp/B000JK2D06

      Beautiful MK1. Thanks for the detailed tips. Question - did you remove any trim or doorhandles or anything or just tape/work around them?

      Quote Originally Posted by 2 doors View Post
      This is the best answer for you. It just came out in the last year or so. I plan on picking one up just for the fun of it.
      I was psyched to see it. It's been added to my list. I'll let you know how it works.

    25. #24
      Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by UncleJB View Post
      Beautiful MK1. Thanks for the detailed tips. Question - did you remove any trim or doorhandles or anything or just tape/work around them?
      I came here to read, as I really need to do the 54 year old paint on my Bug, but I will say that yeah, you should go ahead and pull the door handles since it’s just sooooo easy on a Mk1 or Mk2. The same is true on mine, too, as a Bug’s door handle comes off the same way. It also gives the opportunity to clean and lubricate the latch mechanism.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    26. #25
      Single stage is awesome and is by far the easiest paint type/method to correct and "bring back." Head on down to Harbor Freight, grab their better-of-the-two DA polishers, go online to DI or AutoGeek and get some Lake Country pads and start with something light like Meguiars M205. Can't really mess it up. Take your time and post results after!

      Practice on a newer car or study the heck out of YouTube videos for technique, tips, etc.

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