Stainless steel brace, or no brace, I couldn't leave this like this. I was telling Gary that I write about my projects, partially for the entertainment of others, but mostly because it is a big part of my thought process. With no inner voice and no mind's eye I use the photos I take to help me understand the subtleties of what I need to do next. I use feedback to catch glaring mistakes, and I do take every suggestion into consideration, but I let the work take me where I need to go.
This told me I didn't want my name associated with trying to save this due to being scared to death to bring a TIG welder anywhere all this styrofoam. I started thinking about the cars I've built or restored and got to thinking about aircraft construction. It's all about the bracing and proper fasteners.
It had to go. I checked how far back I had to cut to get to square stock. I used the new Dremel saw to make some incredibly fast and straight cuts.
There was nothing I could do about this. The bent rafter transferred some of the energy to the rectangular stock side railand turned it into a trapezoid. I didn't see it before, by the weld was broken, too. Glad I took it out.
They used the same material for the rafter as the side rail. It's lightweight 1" x 3" aluminum with a 1/16" wall. What seems to be available is 1/8" wall. I've made a request of the manufacturer for an exact replacement. I can use the heavier stock, If I need to. I found the replacement ladder, too.
I used my 100-tooth carbide blade to make a new section of the side rail out of a straight section salvaged from the bent rafter.
I made two internal sleeve supports cut out of one piece of tubing precisely cutting them so that they would jamb each other in place as they were inserted into the trailer side rail. One didn't go in as far as the other, but there's a good 6" of overlapping sleeve on either side of the joint.
I repaired the curved section in a similar fashion.
Demolition is now complete. I believe commercial grade pop rivets through the stainless cap and two layers of aluminum will be a substantial splice without any welding.
I duplicated the good rear curve spacer. The inner radius clamps down the inner closet ceiling curve and the outer curved material screws down to the larger radius.